Hua Hin

A royal seaside retreat in Thailand, with Santorini Park, the Cicada creative market and Sam Roi Yot National Park; quieter than Pattaya and better suited to family holidays.

Hua Hin sits on the western shore of the Gulf of Thailand, at the northern end of Prachuap Khiri Khan province about 200 km southwest of Bangkok. It has been a royal seaside retreat since the 1920s, when King Rama VI and King Rama VII built palaces here. The royal Klai Kangwon Palace ("Far From Worries") is still in use (generally closed to the public), so the town is quiet and safe, geared mainly to family holidays, golf and long stays. Attractions stretch north and south along the coast. In the centre are the railway station, the old streets, the night market and Hua Hin Beach. In the southern suburb of Khao Takiab you'll find Monkey Hill, Royal Park, and the Cicada and Tamarind markets. To the north, Cha-am has Santorini Park, the Swiss Sheep Farm, Mrigadayavan Palace (the Palace of Love and Hope) and Cha-am Beach. The western hills hold vineyards, Pala-U Waterfall and the World Heritage–listed Kaeng Krachan National Park. About 60 km to the south is Sam Roi Yot National Park with Phraya Nakhon Cave, and about 65 km farther north, Phetchaburi has Phra Nakhon Khiri (Khao Wang), Khao Luang Cave, Ban Puen Palace and Wat Mahathat Worawihan, making a standard day trip. Climate: the dry season from November to March is the most comfortable (25–32°C); April–May is scorching; June–October is the rainy season, but Hua Hin lies in a rain shadow with markedly less rain than Phuket, so it can be visited year-round. Getting there and around: direct minivans run from Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi and Don Mueang airports (about 3–3.5 hours), or take a train from Bangkok (about 4 hours). In town, use fixed-route songthaews, tuk-tuks and Grab; for the national parks and Phetchaburi, charter a car or drive. Recommended stay: 3–4 days, with 1 day for the beach and night market, half a day for Cha-am's family attractions, 1 day in Phetchaburi, and 1 day for Sam Roi Yot or Kaeng Krachan. Good to know: Cicada Market is open only on weekends; dress respectfully at royal sites; foreign visitors pay a separate admission fee for national parks.

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