Hot Springs

An old-fashioned spa town wrapped by Hot Springs National Park, where century-old bathhouses on Bathhouse Row still operate and the nearby Ouachita lakes offer boating and hiking.

Hot Springs lies in the Ouachita Mountains of west-central Arkansas, about 90 km (roughly an hour's drive) from the state capital, Little Rock, and has a population of about 40,000. The city and Hot Springs National Park are intertwined: more than 40 springs flow from the western slope of Hot Springs Mountain at about 62°C. From the 19th century it was one of America's most famous spa resorts, and in the early 20th century it also became notorious for its casinos and as a Prohibition-era gangster hangout, with Al Capone and others vacationing here regularly. Established in 1921, Hot Springs National Park is one of the smallest national parks in the US, and entry is free.

The best times to visit are April–May (when tulips and azaleas bloom) and October–November (fall foliage). Summer is hot and humid but great for time on the lakes, while winter is mild and the best time for a soak.

There are three main areas to explore. First, Bathhouse Row and Central Avenue downtown: take a traditional bath at the Buckstaff or soak in the pools at the Quapaw, visit the Fordyce Bathhouse museum, drink beer at a brewery in a converted bathhouse, and browse the Gangster Museum. Second, the national park's forested hills: drive or hike up Hot Springs Mountain to the observation tower, and walk the Grand Promenade and Goat Rock Trail. Third, the surrounding lakes and countryside, including Lake Hamilton cruises, Garvan Woodland Gardens, Lake Ouachita and Lake Catherine state parks, crystal digging north of town, Magic Springs theme park, and winter-to-spring horse racing at Oaklawn.

Plan on 2–3 days. Downtown is walkable, but the lakes and outlying sights require a car. The nearest airport, Hot Springs Memorial Field, has very few flights, so most visitors rent a car at the Little Rock airport. The thermal water jug fountains on Bathhouse Row let you fill up with spring water for free—just bring empty bottles.

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