Hévíz & Keszthely

A spa retreat at the western tip of Lake Balaton: float year-round in Hévíz's natural thermal lake, visit Keszthely's Baroque Festetics Palace, and explore castles and vineyards on the surrounding volcanic hills.

Hévíz and Keszthely lie in Zala County in western Hungary at the western end of Lake Balaton. Just 6 km apart, they form a single spa and lakeside resort area — stay in one and explore the surroundings. Lake Hévíz is Europe's largest swimmable natural thermal lake, constantly replenished by springs in the lakebed; the water is about 33–36°C in summer and still 23–26°C in winter, the surface is covered in water lilies, and you can float and take the cure year-round; Egregy, just north of town, has a 13th-century church and a street of wine cellars. Keszthely is an old town on Balaton's western shore centered on the Baroque Festetics Palace, with a pier, lidos and a boat landing on the lakefront. The area is great for a road trip: on the volcanic hills to the north are the castles of Szigliget, Sümeg and Rezi and the vineyards of Szent György Hill, Tapolca has a lake cave you can boat through, and to the south are the Kis-Balaton wetland water buffalo reserve and the spa town of Zalakaros. Getting there: the train from Budapest to Keszthely takes about 2.5–3 hours, then take a bus to Hévíz; the nearest airport is Hévíz–Balaton Airport (seasonal flights). It's good in any season — soak in the thermal lake in winter, or combine it with swimming in Balaton in summer. Allow 2–3 days.

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