Heijing Ancient Town

A thousand-year-old salt capital in the Longchuan River gorge, with ancient brine wells, the Wu Family Mansion and the Grand Chastity Archway, close to Lufeng's World Dinosaur Valley: central Yunnan's most characterful small town.

Heijing Ancient Town lies in the north of Lufeng, Chuxiong Prefecture, Yunnan, squeezed between two mountains in the Longchuan River gorge, about 190 km from Kunming and 100 km from Chuxiong. Heijing is famous for its salt: production dates back to the Han dynasty, a salt administration office was set up here in the Ming dynasty, and at its Qing-dynasty peak its salt tax at one point made up more than 60% of Yunnan's total, earning it the name "Thousand-Year Salt Capital." Today it is a Famous Historical and Cultural Town of China and a national 4A-rated scenic area. This destination uses Heijing as a base and includes Langjing, about 8 km to the southwest, as well as the World Dinosaur Valley and Lufeng Dinosaur Museum, about 80 km toward Kunming; Chuxiong's Yi Ancient Town and other city sights are listed under the Chuxiong destination.

Sights: the main street runs north from Wuma Bridge past the Qing'an Embankment, the Black Ox Salt Well, the Dalong Temple, the Grand Chastity Archway, the Wu Family Mansion and the Confucian Temple, all easily covered in half a day. Cross the river and climb up to Feilai Temple for a view over the whole town, and about 2 km to the north, the old salt workshop shows the traditional process of boiling brine into salt. Langjing is quieter and ideal for soaking up the past. The World Dinosaur Valley, at Chuanjie south of Lufeng city, is great for families.

Seasons: Oct–Apr is sunny and dry, the best time to visit; the May–Sep rainy season is hot and humid in the gorge, with occasional landslides. Getting there: regular trains on the Chengdu–Kunming Railway run from Kunming to Heijing Station (about 4 hours), or you can get off at Guangtong North and transfer; buses run from Chuxiong and Lufeng. Drivers enter the gorge via Guangtong and Tuo'an on a winding mountain road. Allow 2 days: spend a night in the old town, then visit the Dinosaur Valley on day two before returning to Kunming. Don't miss Heijing salt-baked chicken, salt tofu, crusty pot salt and pickled vegetables.

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