Havana Cathedral & Plaza de la Catedral

Catedral de San Cristóbal de La Habana

A Cuban Baroque church that writer Alejo Carpentier called “music frozen in stone.” Its asymmetrical twin towers and coral-stone façade are the most distinctive features.

Havana Cathedral (Cathedral of San Cristóbal de La Habana) was begun by the Jesuits in 1748. After the Jesuits were expelled in 1767, others continued the construction. It was completed in 1777 and became a cathedral in 1789. It is a masterpiece of Cuban Baroque architecture. The façade is built of local coral limestone, and a close look reveals shells and coral fossils within the stone. The undulating façade, columns, and cornices have a sense of rhythm, and Cuban writer Alejo Carpentier called it “music frozen in stone.” The two bell towers, one wider than the other, are asymmetrical, reportedly so that there is room in the street for rainwater to drain away across the square. The interior is relatively plain, in neoclassical style, with reproductions of murals by Italian painters. Columbus's remains are reportedly said to have been kept here until 1898, when they were moved to Seville, Spain. The Plaza de la Catedral in front of the church was once a swamp, known as “Swamp Square.” It is surrounded by 18th-century aristocratic mansions: the Count of Bayona Palace, home of the Museum of Colonial Art, and the Marquis of Aguas Claras Palace, now a restaurant. Women in traditional dress, cigars in hand, waiting to be photographed for a fee are a common sight on the square. Entry to the church is free, and a small fee lets you climb the bell tower for views over the old town rooftops and the bay. It is a short walk to La Bodeguita del Medio.

Havana Cathedral & Plaza de la Catedral

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