Harar

Eastern Ethiopia’s holy Islamic city, whose mosques and colourful alleys within the Jugol walls are a World Heritage Site, with hyena feeding outside the walls at night and camel markets and the Valley of Marvels nearby.

Harar lies on the eastern Ethiopian highlands at about 1,850 m and is the capital of the Harari Region; locally it is regarded as the fourth holiest city of Islam. The Jugol wall, built by Emir Nur in the 16th century, encloses an old town of about 48 hectares containing more than 80 mosques and over a hundred saints’ shrines, colourfully painted alleys and traditional Harari houses; it was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2006. The French poet Rimbaud once traded here, and Ras Makonnen, father of Emperor Haile Selassie, served as governor. The heart of a visit is exploring the old town on foot: enter through Harar Gate and pass Feres Magala square, the Smugglers’ Market and Jami Mosque to Rimbaud’s House and the city museum; hire a licensed local guide and you can cover the main sights in half a day. After dark, head outside the walls to watch the “Hyena Men” feed hyenas — an experience unique in the country. Day trips go to the camel market at Babile and the strange rock formations of the Valley of Marvels, or via Dire Dawa to see its French-style old railway station. The climate is cool; the Oct–Mar dry season is best, and Jun–Sep is the rainy season. Getting there: fly from Addis Ababa to Dire Dawa (about 1 hour), then drive about 1 hour (55 km) to Harar; long-distance buses take about 9–10 hours. Recommended stay: 2 days. Tips: chewing khat is widespread; ask permission before photographing people, respect religious customs when entering mosques and shrines, and note that non-Muslims are generally not allowed into the main mosques.

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