Hamamatsu

Western Shizuoka's city of musical instruments: beyond Hamamatsu Castle and the instrument museum, Lake Hamana offers Kanzanji Onsen, a ropeway across the lake and the torii in the water at Bentenjima—an easy weekend escape.

Hamamatsu, in western Shizuoka Prefecture, is the prefecture's most populous city. Lying between Tokyo and Nagoya, it is about 1.5 hours from Tokyo and 30 minutes from Nagoya on the Tokaido Shinkansen. It is the birthplace of Yamaha, Kawai, Roland, Suzuki and Honda, earning it the nicknames "City of Music" and "City of Motorcycles", and it was where Tokugawa Ieyasu had his castle as a young man. The city centres on Hamamatsu Station; about 15–20 km west lies Lake Hamana, roughly 114 km around, while Tenryu Ward to the north is forested hills and old temples, and the south faces the Enshu-nada coast.

Highlights: Hamamatsu Castle, the Museum of Musical Instruments and Suzuki Plaza in the city; Kanzanji Onsen, the lake-crossing ropeway, Hamamatsu Flower Park and Pal Pal amusement park on the east shore of Lake Hamana; the sunset over the red torii standing in the water at Bentenjima, at the mouth of the lake; Ryotanji, Hokoji and Ryugashido Cave in Iinoya on the north shore, plus the Tenryu Hamanako Railway, which ambles along the lake. To the east, Oguni Shrine in Mori, and Hattasan and Kasuisai in Fukuroi, are all within an hour's drive.

Best time to visit: cherry blossoms and Flower Park tulips in Mar–Apr; the Hamamatsu Festival kite battles on May 3–5; water sports on the lake in summer; autumn colours at Hokoji and Oguni Shrine in November. Winter is mostly sunny, but the dry "Enshu no karakkaze" wind can be fierce.

Getting around and how long to stay: the city centre is walkable; Kanzanji Onsen is about 45 minutes by bus. Public transport on the lake's north shore and in Tenryu is infrequent, so drive or use the Tenhama Line. Two days is ideal: one for the city, the Nakatajima Sand Dunes and sunset at Bentenjima; the other for the Kanzanji ropeway and Flower Park, with a night at the onsen. With an extra day, visit the north-shore temples and ride the Tenhama Line. Don't miss Lake Hamana eel on rice, Hamamatsu gyoza (served with bean sprouts) and soft-shell turtle dishes.

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