Haida Gwaii

An archipelago in the Pacific that is the homeland of the Haida people, with totem poles, rainforest and the World Heritage village site of SGang Gwaay; it's known as the "Galápagos of Canada."

Haida Gwaii (formerly the Queen Charlotte Islands) lies in the Pacific about 100 km off the north coast of British Columbia, Canada. Made up of Graham Island, Moresby Island and some 150 smaller islands, it is the ancestral homeland of the Haida Nation, and its unique biodiversity has earned it the nickname "the Galápagos of Canada." The islands divide into three areas for visitors: in the south, around Skidegate and Daajing Giids, are the Haida Heritage Centre and Balance Rock; in the north, Masset, Old Massett and Naikoon Provincial Park offer Tow Hill, Agate Beach and the Pesuta shipwreck; and the highlight, Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and the World Heritage Site of SGang Gwaay, lies south of Moresby Island and is reachable only by boat or floatplane. The best season is Jun–Aug, and Gwaii Haanas is open roughly May–Sep; the rest of the year brings rough seas and heavy rain, and many operators close. The climate is cool and damp year-round, so bring a waterproof jacket. Getting there: fly from Vancouver to Sandspit or Masset in about 2 hours, or take BC Ferries from Prince Rupert to Skidegate in about 7 hours. Public transport on the islands is minimal, so you'll need to rent a car; a short ferry connects Graham and Moresby islands. Allow 4–6 days, and book day or multi-day trips to Gwaii Haanas several months in advance. Note: visiting Gwaii Haanas requires a reservation and a mandatory orientation; respect Haida culture by following the Watchmen's guidance at villages and ancient sites and never touching the totem poles; lodging and rental cars are limited, so be sure to book early in peak season.

Top sights

• Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llnagaay – A Haida cultural centre on the Skidegate shoreline, where six memorial totem poles face the sea. A museum, carving shed and canoe house sho…
• Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve – A land and sea protected area co-managed by the Haida Nation and Parks Canada, where rainforest, islands, ancient villages and marine life…
• SGang Gwaay Llnagaay – A World Heritage Haida village site where more than ten 19th-century memorial and mortuary totem poles still stand by the shore, slowly bei…
• Tow Hill & Blow Hole – A 133-metre columnar basalt hill on the north coast. A boardwalk to the top overlooks North Beach, and at the base, tidal sea caves spout w…
• K'uuna Llnagaay (Skedans) – The ruins of a Haida village on Louise Island, where fallen totem poles and longhouse pits decay quietly at the edge of the rainforest. The…
• Naikoon Provincial Park – A large provincial park at the northeast tip of Graham Island, with nearly 100 km of wild beaches, dunes, marshes, and rainforest, offering…
• Agate Beach – A pebble beach at the foot of Tow Hill where you can search for translucent agates among the stones at low tide, with sunsets and Tow Hill…
• Pesuta Shipwreck – The remains of a wooden log barge that ran aground on East Beach in 1928. It is about 5 km from the Tlell River and is a classic hiking des…
• Balance Rock – A glacial erratic on the beach north of Skidegate that appears to balance on a tiny point of contact with the rocks, just a few minutes' wa…
• Old Massett – The largest Haida village in the north of the archipelago, with totem poles by renowned carvers such as Robert Davidson lining its streets…
• Masset & Delkatla Wildlife Sanctuary – A small town at the northern tip of the archipelago. The Delkatla tidal wetland on its edge is a stopover for migratory birds, with sandhil…
• Golden Spruce Trail – A short trail through old-growth rainforest on the banks of the Yakoun River, once leading to the sacred golden spruce of the Haida. Its 19…
• Tlell – An artists' community on the east coast of Graham Island, where the Tlell River winds through dunes to the sea. It is the starting point fo…
• Rose Spit – A long sand spit jutting into the sea at the northeastern corner of the archipelago. In Haida legend, Raven found the first humans in a cla…
• Daajing Giids – A harbor town formerly known as Queen Charlotte City, the main base for accommodation, dining and boat tours in the south of the archipelag…

Where to eat

• Blacktail Restaurant – A casual fine-dining restaurant on the Daajing Giids waterfront, known for local seafood and seasonal ingredients and w…
• Jags Beanstalk – A family-run café on Highway 16 in Skidegate, known for fresh cinnamon rolls and breakfast burritos, about a 10-minute…

Itineraries

• Inside Passage and Haida Gwaii – Head north along Vancouver Island and take a ferry through the Inside Passage to Haida Gwaii.