Gwangju & Damyang

Jeolla's city of food and art, with May 18th democracy sites and the Asia Culture Center, plus Damyang's Juknokwon bamboo forest, Metasequoia-lined road and Soswaewon garden to the north.

Gwangju is the main city of the Jeolla region in southwestern Korea, known as a city of “art, righteousness and flavour”. The May 18th Gwangju Democratic Uprising of 1980 made it a symbol of Korean democratisation, and its archives are inscribed on the Memory of the World Register; the Gwangju Biennale is one of Asia's most important contemporary art exhibitions; and Jeolla cuisine is famous for its lavish spreads of side dishes. Sightseeing in the city centres on Culture Complex subway station, with the Asia Culture Center, May 18th Democracy Square, Art Street, Daein Market and Yangnim-dong all within walking distance. To the east is Mudeungsan National Park, and the May 18th National Cemetery lies on the northern outskirts. About 25 km north, Damyang County is bamboo country, with Juknokwon, Gwanbangjerim Forest and the Metasequoia-lined road clustered in Damyang-eup, while around Gwangju Lake you'll find Joseon-era scholars' gardens such as Soswaewon and Sigyeongjeong. To the south, Hwasun County has Unjusa Temple with its thousand Buddhas and thousand pagodas, and World Heritage–listed dolmens. Getting there: the KTX from Seoul's Yongsan Station to Gwangju Songjeong Station takes about 1 hour 50 minutes, and the city has one subway line. For Damyang, take a bus from Gwangju's bus terminal (about 50 minutes); for the garden route and Hwasun, driving or hiring a car is recommended. Plan 2–3 days: one day in Gwangju, one in Damyang, and an extra day to hike Mudeungsan or visit Hwasun. Spring and autumn are best; summer is hot and humid, and rime ice often coats Mudeungsan in winter. Must-tries include Songjeong tteokgalbi, Damyang bamboo-tube rice and grilled ribs.

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