Guanajuato & San Miguel de Allende

A colorful hill town said to have inspired Coco, with underground streets and the Alley of the Kiss, paired with the art town of San Miguel: Mexico's most photogenic colonial duo.

The state of Guanajuato lies in the El Bajío region of Mexico's central highlands. In the 18th century it was one of the world's most important silver-producing areas, and it was the birthplace of the Mexican War of Independence in 1810. This destination combines two World Heritage towns. The state capital, the city of Guanajuato (about 2,000 m above sea level), is built in a narrow canyon, with houses stacked on one another and painted yellow, blue, pink, orange and other colors. Beneath the city runs a network of tunnel roads converted from old riverbeds and mine shafts, while above ground is a maze of stone-stepped alleys. It was inscribed as a World Heritage Site in 1988 as the "Historic Town of Guanajuato and Adjacent Mines" and is considered one of the inspirations for the Land of the Dead in the film Coco. About 90 km away, San Miguel de Allende (about 1,900 m) is a Baroque colonial town whose landmark is the pink Gothic parish church. It is packed with galleries, craft shops, rooftop bars and boutique hotels, and many European and American artists and retirees have settled here; in 2008 it was inscribed as a World Heritage Site together with the nearby Sanctuary of Atotonilco. Climate: the highland climate is mild. October to April is the dry season, with daytime highs of 20–27°C and cool mornings and evenings, the best time to visit. In October Guanajuato hosts the International Cervantino Festival, one of Latin America's biggest arts festivals, and Day of the Dead falls on November 1–2, so book accommodation months ahead; June–September is the rainy season, with frequent afternoon thunderstorms. Getting there: the nearest airport is Bajío International Airport (BJX) in León, about 40 minutes from Guanajuato and about 1.5 hours from San Miguel; Querétaro Airport (QRO) is about 1 hour from San Miguel; from Mexico City's Terminal Norte, deluxe coaches such as ETN and Primera Plus take about 4–5 hours to either city. The drive between the two cities takes about 1.5 hours, by coach or chartered car. Recommended stay: 2 days in Guanajuato + 2 days in San Miguel, with a half-day in Dolores Hidalgo possible on the way. Notes: both cities have steep, cobbled streets, so wear comfortable shoes; the sun is strong at altitude and day-night temperature swings are large; some areas of the state outside Guanajuato's old town have poorer security, so avoid driving between cities at night. Chinese citizens need a Mexican visa, but holders of a valid US, Canadian, UK, Japanese or Schengen visa can enter visa-free (check the latest policy).

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