Guadeloupe (Basse-Terre & Deshaies)

The volcanic half of France's "Butterfly Island": La Soufrière volcano, the Carbet Falls, diving in the Cousteau Reserve and the Creole bays of Deshaies.

Guadeloupe is a French overseas department in the Caribbean whose main island is shaped like a butterfly with outstretched wings: the eastern wing, Grande-Terre, is flat and known for its white-sand beaches, while the western wing, Basse-Terre, is a world of volcanoes and rainforest. This destination covers the latter, using the northwest-coast fishing village of Deshaies as a base. Most of central Basse-Terre lies within Guadeloupe National Park; its highest peak, La Soufrière (1,467 m), is the highest point in the Lesser Antilles. On its southeastern slopes are the Carbet Falls and the Grand Étang, and the Route de la Traversée, which cuts across the central mountains, is lined with rainforest waterfall trails. The west coast is the sheltered leeward side (Côte-sous-le-Vent): Grande Anse and Plage de la Perle near Deshaies have calm water, and offshore from Malendure Beach the Pigeon Islands form the Cousteau Reserve, where sea turtles are everywhere; Bouillante also has seaside hot springs. At the southern tip, the town of Basse-Terre is the departmental capital, with Fort Delgrès and its cathedral; from nearby Trois-Rivières a 20-minute boat ride takes you to Terre-de-Haut in the Îles des Saintes, a popular day trip. In the north, Sainte-Rose has a rum museum and mangrove boat tours. The best time to visit is the dry season from December to May; July–October is hurricane season, and the mountains are rainy year-round. The euro and French are used throughout. Guadeloupe is not part of the Schengen Area, and Chinese passport holders need a separate visa for the French overseas departments, so check requirements before you travel. Public transport on the island is limited, so renting a car at Pointe-à-Pitre airport is strongly recommended; the drive from the airport to Deshaies takes about 45 minutes. Plan to stay 4–6 days. Grande-Terre's beaches, Pointe des Châteaux and the Mémorial ACTe are not included in this destination.

Top sights

• La Grande Soufrière – A 1,467-meter active volcano, the highest peak in the Lesser Antilles. At the summit, you can see sulphur vents steaming from fissures and…
• Chutes du Carbet – A three-tier waterfall on the eastern slope of La Soufrière. The second tier is about 110 meters high, making it one of the most famous wat…
• Réserve Cousteau, Îlets Pigeon – Two small islands off the Malendure coast, famous for being championed by Jacques Cousteau. Coral, sea turtles and an underwater bronze bus…
• Jardin Botanique de Deshaies – A tropical garden built on the former home of French comedian Coluche, with waterfalls, a parrot aviary, a flamingo pond, and a restaurant…
• Grande Anse, Deshaies – Basse-Terre's longest and most beautiful golden sand beach, about 1 km long, lined with coconut palms and free of high-rise development.
• Terre-de-Haut, Les Saintes – The main island of the Saintes archipelago, often called one of the most beautiful bays in the world. Colorful fishing village, white sand…
• Cascade aux Écrevisses – A small rainforest waterfall beside the road, reached in about 10 minutes on foot. It is the most accessible waterfall in the national park.
• Musée du Rhum (Distillerie Reimonenq) – A museum inside the Reimonenq family distillery in Saint-Rose. It displays the history of rum-making, old ship models and insect specimens…
• Deshaies Village – A Creole fishing village around a small bay, lined with colourful wooden houses, fishing boats and seafood restaurants. It was the filming…
• Plage de Malendure – A black-sand beach facing the Pigeon Islands, where you can snorkel near the shore to see sea turtles. It is the departure point for boats…
• Plage de la Perle – A wild golden-sand beach north of Deshaies, with palm trees, few visitors and beautiful scenery. It is a frequent filming location for Deat…
• Plage de Cluny – A golden bay at the northern tip of Basse-Terre, facing Tatie islet, with beautiful views. It is also a nesting site for sea turtles.
• Fort Delgrès – A 17th-century fortress in Basse-Terre, the site of Delgrès' resistance in 1802 against the restoration of slavery.
• Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-Guadeloupe – A 17th-century Baroque cathedral in Basse-Terre. Its solemn facade is built of stone, and the interior has a wooden vault shaped like an up…
• Route de la Traversée & Maison de la Forêt – The D23 road crossing the national park's rainforest, with the Maison de la Forêt trail, waterfalls and picnic areas along the way. It is a…
• Zoo de Guadeloupe (Parc des Mamelles) – A rainforest zoo beside the crossing road, featuring Caribbean animals such as the raccoon 'Ratoon', and an elevated treetop walkway.
• Grand Étang – A volcanic crater lake beside the road to the Carbet Falls, with a lakeside trail of about an hour and rainforest reflected on the water.
• Allée Dumanoir – An avenue about 1 km long lined with royal palms in Capesterre-Belle-Eau, with nearly 400 palms standing tall and straight on either side.
• Parc Archéologique des Roches Gravées – Around 230 Arawak rock carvings preserved in a tropical garden in Trois-Rivières, an important Indigenous heritage site in the Caribbean.
• Grande Anse, Trois-Rivières – A volcanic black-sand beach at the southern tip of the island, backed by the shadow of La Soufrière and facing the Îles des Saintes. The sc…
• Habitation La Grivelière – An 18th-century coffee plantation deep in a rainforest valley, with its owner's house, slave quarters and processing equipment preserved as…
• Saut de la Lézarde – A waterfall of about 13 m in the hills above Petit-Bourg, falling into a deep green pool. The trail there is muddy.
• Maison du Cacao – A cacao plantation in Pointe-Noire, where guided tours explain how cacao goes from pod to chocolate and you can taste hot chocolate.
• Distillerie Bologne – An established agricultural rum distillery on the northern outskirts of Basse-Terre, at the foot of La Soufrière, growing sugarcane since t…
• Distillerie Longueteau – A family-run distillery in Capesterre-Belle-Eau, one of the oldest agricultural rum distilleries still operating in Guadeloupe.
• Îlet Caret & Grand Cul-de-Sac Marin – A white-sand island in the Grand Cul-de-Sac Marin lagoon, reached by boat from Saint-Rose, with snorkelling, mangrove tours and picnics in…
• Bouillante Hot Springs (Source de Thomas) – Geothermal hot springs in the town of Bouillante, where natural hot water flows into rock pools by the sea. You can soak while watching the…
• Fort Napoléon des Saintes – A 19th-century fortress on the hilltop of Terre-de-Haut, with a naval battle museum and cactus garden, overlooking the entire Saintes bay.

Where to eat

• Le Madras – The filming location for Catherine's Bar in the British TV series "Death in Paradise," featuring a beach terrace right…
• Sunset B – The highest-rated seaside restaurant in Bouillante, featuring a daily changing menu based on local ingredients with lim…
• La Savane – An ocean-view restaurant in the center of Deshaies, known for its creative French fusion cuisine, with the tuna tataki…
• Paradise Kafé – An elevated terrace overlooking Deshaies Bay, famous for its Thai-Vietnamese fusion dishes, punches, and sunset views.
• La Terrasse de Leroux – A family-run eatery near Leroux Beach that doubles as a bakery, popular for its affordable home-cooked meals and hand-c…
• La Touna – An established waterfront seafood restaurant in Bouillante, facing Pigeon Island and the Cousteau Reserve, featuring a…

Itineraries

• Guadeloupe to Saint Lucia 4-Island Ferry Itinerary – Connect Guadeloupe, Dominica, Martinique, and Saint Lucia from north to south by inter-island express ferry.