Gondar

"The Camelot of Africa": 17th-century Fasil Ghebbi castle compound, Fasilides' Bath and the church of the painted angels.

Gondar and the Simien Mountains lie in the Amhara Region of northwestern Ethiopia, and a single trip lets you see two World Heritage sites. Gondar sits about 50 km north of Lake Tana and was the capital of the Ethiopian Empire from 1636. Within its royal enclosure are palaces including Fasilides' Castle, while outside the walls you will find Fasilides' Bath, the Kuskuam Palace and the angel-ceiling church of Debre Birhan Selassie. Simien Mountains National Park lies about 100 km northeast of Gondar and is famous for its kilometer-high escarpments, jagged peaks, and its gelada monkeys, walia ibex and Ethiopian wolves. The best season is the dry season from October to March, and the valleys are greenest just after the rains (June–September). Around January 19, Timkat (Epiphany) is celebrated with a grand baptism ceremony at the Bath, so book accommodation early. Getting there: the flight from Addis Ababa to Gondar takes about 1 hour. For the Simien Mountains, you must buy your park permit in the gateway town of Debark and hire an armed scout. We suggest 1–2 days in Gondar, then either a day trip into the Simien Mountains as far as Sankaber, or a 3–4 day trek to Gich, Imet Gogo and Chenek; climbing to the summit of Ras Dashen takes 7–9 days. The highlands have big day–night temperature swings, so bring warm clothing. Safety note: the situation in the Amhara Region has been changeable in recent years, and roads and flights may be disrupted at short notice. Before you travel, be sure to check the latest travel advisories from the Chinese Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the Chinese Embassy in Ethiopia, and arrange your trip through a reputable travel agency.

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