Gokarna

A seaside town where a sacred Shiva pilgrimage site meets backpacker beaches; a clifftop trail links Kudle, Om, Half Moon and Paradise beaches – a quieter alternative to Goa.

Gokarna lies on the Uttara Kannada coast in northern Karnataka, India, about 150 km south of Goa. It is an ancient Shiva pilgrimage town, and the string of cliff-divided coves south of town has made it the backpacker's "Goa before commercialisation". At the heart of town are the Mahabaleshwar Temple, which enshrines the "Atma Linga", the Maha Ganapati Temple and the Koti Teertha tank; the main street is lined with old houses, spice shops and stalls selling pilgrimage goods. Main Beach is on the west side of town. Heading south over the headlands you reach Kudle, Om, Half Moon and Paradise beaches in turn, linked by a clifftop trail of about 8 km; the beaches have shack cafés, yoga classes and simple accommodation. Day trips: inland to Yana Rocks, Vibhuti Falls and Mirjan Fort; south to the Sharavathi backwaters at Honnavar and Apsarakonda, then on to the Shiva statue at Murudeshwar and diving at Netrani Island; in the monsoon you can also make the longer trip to Jog Falls. The best season is Oct–Mar, with sunny weather and calm seas; Apr–May is hot; during the Jun–Sep monsoon the surf is rough, most beach shacks close and swimming is prohibited. Getting there: the nearest station is Gokarna Road on the Konkan Railway (about 10 km), or change at Kumta; the nearest airports are Goa's Mopa and Dabolim, about 3–4 hours away by road. Allow 3–4 days. Tips: dress modestly and remove your shoes in temples, and some areas are closed to non-Hindus; rip currents are strong and drownings happen regularly; the town has a fairly strong no-alcohol ethos, so respect the local pilgrimage culture.

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