Fontainhas, Panaji

Fontainhas

The Portuguese-style old quarter of Goa's capital, with yellow, blue and green Portuguese houses, tiled house numbers and small chapels. It is often called the 'Little Lisbon of India'.

Fontainhas is a neighbourhood on the hillside behind Panaji's Old Town. It was developed in the late 18th century by a Portuguese merchant, and after Panaji replaced Old Goa as the capital in 1843, it became a residential area for Portuguese and Goan Catholics. It still preserves narrow stone-paved lanes, Portuguese houses painted ochre, indigo and mint green, azulejo tile house numbers, wrought-iron balconies and tiled roofs. It is the only neighbourhood in India listed as a Latin Quarter heritage site. Highlights include the white Chapel of St Sebastian, which holds a crucifix from the Inquisition in Old Goa with its eyes open, the gallery of the Fundação Oriente Portuguese cultural centre, an old corner bakery selling Portuguese-style poee bread, the Panjim Inn and Afonso guesthouses (both converted from old mansions), and plenty of graffiti and cafés. At the foot of the hill are Panjim's main street and the white Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, built in 1541, whose stepped façade is Panaji's emblem. Entry is free and you can wander at any time. Shops are generally open roughly 10:00-19:00. Suggested route: start at the church, walk into the Old Quarter along 31 January Road and wander the lanes for about 1-1.5 hours. For lunch, try Goan food at Viva Panjim or Hotel Venite, such as fish curry, vindaloo and bebinca layer cake. In the evening, stroll along the Mandovi riverfront to watch the casino boats light up. Getting there: a 10-minute walk from Panaji's long-distance bus station, or about 40 minutes by taxi from the North Goa beaches. Note: this is a residential area, so do not photograph into windows or doors. Most shops close on Sundays.

Fontainhas, Panaji

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