Ganzhou Old City

Ganzhou, the "Song-dynasty city", with well-preserved Song city walls, an ancient pontoon bridge and the Fushou Drainage System; read Xin Qiji's poetry atop Yugu Terrace and eat southern Jiangxi Hakka stir-fries and fish cakes on the street.

Ganzhou lies in southern Jiangxi, where the Zhang and Gong rivers meet to form the Gan River. It is Jiangxi's largest prefecture-level city by area and one of the main Hakka heartlands, known as the "Cradle of the Hakka". This destination is based in the central Zhanggong District. Surrounded by water on three sides, the old town preserves Song-dynasty brick city walls rare in China (you can walk along the wall from Bajing Terrace to Xijin Gate), the Northern Song Fushou Drainage System and its museum, Yugu Terrace, the ancient pontoon bridge at Jianchun Gate, the old street of Zao'er Lane, Ciyun Pagoda and the Confucian Temple — earning it the name "Song City of Jiangnan". Northwest of the city are the Tongtian Rock grottoes; to the north is the Fantawild Oriental Dawn theme park; to the east are Qili Ancient Town and the Hakka Culture City; and to the south is Fengshan National Forest Park. Further afield, you can make day trips to Bailu Ancient Village in Ganxian and the Central Red Army's Long March starting point in Yudu. Longnan's Hakka walled houses and Sanbai Mountain to the south, and Ruijin to the east, are covered as separate destinations. The best seasons are March–May and October–November; summers are hot, often above 35°C in July–August. Getting there: Ganzhou West Station is the hub for the Nanchang–Ganzhou and Ganzhou–Shenzhen high-speed lines, about 2 hours from Nanchang and 2 hours from Shenzhen; Ganzhou Huangjin Airport has numerous routes, and city buses and taxis are convenient. Allow 2–3 days: one day for the old town (city walls, Bajing Terrace, Yugu Terrace, pontoon bridge, Zao'er Lane, Fushou Drainage System), half a day for Tongtian Rock or the city museum, an evening at Qili Ancient Town, plus an optional day trip to Bailu Ancient Village or Yudu. Food highlights include southern Jiangxi stir-fried fish, fish cakes and fish dumplings, Hakka stuffed tofu, three-cup chicken and Nan'an pressed duck; November–December is the season for Gannan navel oranges. Note: the city walls and riverside paths are exposed to strong sun in summer, so visit early in the morning or in the evening.

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