Gallup

A Native American trading hub on Route 66, lined with silver jewelry and turquoise shops and neon-lit old streets. Near Red Rock Park, you can visit Zuni Pueblo, El Morro and Window Rock.

Gallup is in McKinley County in northwestern New Mexico. Interstate 40 and historic Route 66 both run through the city, which is only about 30 km from the Arizona state line. Surrounded by the Navajo and Zuni reservations, it is known as the 'Native American Capital of the United States.' The old Route 66 street is the center of town, with neon signs, murals and dozens of trading posts, where you can shop for Navajo and Zuni silver jewelry, turquoise and handwoven rugs. The El Rancho Hotel, where Hollywood stars once stayed, and the cultural center in the old railway station are within walking distance. Red Rock Park on the eastern edge of town has red sandstone cliffs suited to hiking. Intertribal ceremonies are held here in August, and a hot air balloon festival takes place in autumn.

There are three classic day-trip routes. About 40 km northwest is Window Rock, Arizona, the capital of the Navajo Nation, where you can see the famous window-shaped rock and the tribal museum. About 60 km south is Zuni Pueblo, where you can take a guided tour of the ancient central village and the mission church with murals. Then head east on NM-53 to El Morro National Monument to see Inscription Rock. On the way, stop at the Bandera Volcano Ice Caves, which together form a one-day 'ancient trail' loop.

Gallup sits at about 2,000 m. Summer days are hot and nights are cool, with afternoon thunderstorms in July and August. Winters are cold but often sunny. The best season is May to October.

Getting there: the Amtrak Southwest Chief stops daily. Driving from Albuquerque along I-40 takes about 2 hours. Plan 2-3 days.

Notes: most of the reservation land is alcohol-free. Obtain permission before photographing Native people or ceremonies. The Navajo Nation observes daylight saving time, while the rest of Arizona does not, so pay attention to the time when planning cross-state itineraries.

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