Isabela Island, Galápagos

The largest island in the Galápagos, with the white sands of Puerto Villamil, the Sierra Negra crater and snorkeling at Los Túneles — penguins, marine iguanas and flamingos right before your eyes.

Isabela Island (Isla Isabela) is the largest island in the Galápagos archipelago, covering about 4,600 km². Formed by six shield volcanoes fused together, it is shaped like a seahorse, and the equator runs across its north. Almost the entire island is national park; the only settlement is Puerto Villamil on the south coast, a town of about 2,000 people with sandy streets, long white beaches and surrounding lagoons — quieter and wilder than Santa Cruz. Climate: December–May is the warm season, with water at 24–26°C and plenty of sunshine, ideal for snorkeling; June–November brings the cold Humboldt Current, with water at 18–21°C and frequent mist, but marine life is more active — a wetsuit is recommended for snorkeling. Where to go: in and around town you can walk or cycle to Puerto Villamil beach, Concha de Perla, the flamingo lagoon and the Giant Tortoise Breeding Center, and 5 km west along the coast lie the wetland trails and the Wall of Tears. Beyond town, you'll need a tour to visit Sierra Negra (a hike to the second-largest active volcanic crater and the lava landscapes of Volcán Chico), Los Túneles snorkeling area (lava arches at sea about 30 km away, with sea turtles, seahorses and blue-footed boobies) and the islet of Las Tintoreras (white-tip reef sharks and marine iguanas). Tagus Cove, Urbina Bay and other sites in the island's northwest are accessible only on cruises. Getting there: public speedboats from Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz take about 2–2.5 hours, with one morning and one afternoon departure daily; the crossing can be rough and seasickness is common. Small planes also fly in. A municipal fee is charged on arrival; the national park entrance fee is paid when entering the archipelago (US$200 for foreign adults since August 2024). ATMs in town are few and often out of order, so bring plenty of US dollars in cash. Plan on 2–3 nights: one day for the volcano, one for Los Túneles, and half a day for Las Tintoreras and the area around town. Keep 2 m from wildlife; feeding animals and flash photography are prohibited.

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