Fugong

The middle stretch of the Nujiang Grand Canyon, where the Nu village of Laomudeng overlooks the gorge and Crown Mountain; to the north is the Stone Moon arch, and the Nujiang Beautiful Highway runs through.

Fugong County lies in the middle of Nujiang Lisu Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan. Here the Nu River has cut a canyon two to three thousand meters deep between the Biluo and Gaoligong mountains, and the county covers a complete section of the middle gorge. Most visitors base themselves at Laomudeng village in Pihe Township to the south. This Nu ethnic village sits on the western slope of the Biluo Snow Mountains at about 1,800 m, directly across the river from Gaoligong's Crown Mountain. The village has a church, tea gardens and many guesthouses with views, and you can walk or drive to Zhiziluo, the "forgotten city" that was once the seat of Bijiang County. Heading north along the Nujiang Beautiful Highway you reach Fugong county town (with Lawuyan Waterfall) and Shiyueliang Township, where a viewing platform looks out to the Stone Moon, a natural arch in the Gaoligong mountains. The best season is the dry season, Oct–Apr, when skies are clear and sea-of-clouds and sunrise views are most common; during the Jun–Sep rainy season the canyon is heavily shrouded in mist and the highway is prone to landslides and rockfalls, so check road conditions before setting out. Getting there: from Dali or Baoshan, travel to Liuku in Lushui, then drive north along the Beautiful Highway for about 2 hours to Pihe, and about 30 minutes uphill to Laomudeng; you can also come south from Bingzhongluo (about 4–5 hours). Suggested stay: 1–2 days. Spend one night in Laomudeng for sunset, sunrise and the church service; the next day visit Zhiziluo, then head north to the Stone Moon and on to Bingzhongluo. Notes: day–night temperature swings in the mountains are large, so bring a jacket for mornings and evenings in the dry season; please respect Sunday worship; village accommodation is mainly guesthouses, which should be booked in advance on holidays.

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