Freetown
Sierra Leone's capital, with a string of white-sand beaches such as River Number Two and Tokeh along the peninsula; Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary, the slave-trade site of Bunce Island and the Banana Islands are all easy day trips.
Freetown, the capital of the West African nation of Sierra Leone, lies on the north side of a mountainous peninsula on the Atlantic coast, backed by rainforest-clad ridges and facing the Sierra Leone River estuary, one of the world's largest natural harbors. In 1792 British abolitionists resettled freed slaves from Nova Scotia here, giving the 'City of Freedom' its name; Jamaican Maroons and Africans liberated from slave ships by the Royal Navy followed, forging a distinctive Krio culture. Sightseeing falls into three parts: the city center (the National Museum, St. John's Maroon Church, St. George's Cathedral and the Big Market, plus the old Fourah Bay College site and the Railway Museum in Cline Town to the east); the hotel district and city beaches of Aberdeen–Lumley in the west; and, stretching south along the peninsula road, the white-sand beaches of River Number Two, Tokeh, John Obey and Bureh, as well as Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary in the hills. Boats run to the slave-trade ruins on Bunce Island in the estuary, or from Kent village to the Banana Islands. The best time to visit is the Nov–Apr dry season, with temperatures of 28–32°C; May–Oct is the rainy season, with extremely heavy rain in Jul–Aug, muddy roads and frequently canceled boats. Arrival: international flights land at Lungi Airport across the estuary, from where you take a water taxi (about 30 minutes) or the long way round by road into the city. In town, taxis, motorbike taxis and hired cars are the main options; for the peninsula beaches, hire a car for the day. Allow 4–6 days. Note: arrange a visa in advance (e-visas are available), get a yellow fever vaccination and bring malaria prophylaxis. The city is generally reasonably safe, but avoid walking alone at night; US dollar cash is widely used.
Top sights
- Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary – A chimpanzee rescue center in the rainforest of the Western Area Peninsula, caring for West African chimpanzees confiscated from poachers a…
- Bunce Island – The ruins of an 18th-century British slave-trading fort in the Sierra Leone River estuary, from which large numbers of Africans were shippe…
- River Number Two Beach – One of the most beautiful white-sand beaches on the Western Area Peninsula, where a river meets the Atlantic at the foot of green hills. Ru…
- Banana Islands – Three small islands offshore from the southern tip of the peninsula, with colonial-era church ruins, cannons, and diving and snorkeling spo…
- Tokeh Beach – A long sandy beach just south of the No. 2 River, lined with resort hotels and seaside restaurants. It is ideal for swimming and watching t…
- Lumley Beach – A city beach stretching several kilometers west of central Freetown, lined with bars and restaurants. It is popular in the evenings for foo…
- Sierra Leone National Museum – A small national museum in the city center, next to the site of the original kapok tree. It displays masks, woodcarvings, traditional costu…
- St. John's Maroon Church – A white church of wood and stone built in the 1820s by descendants of Jamaican Maroons, and one of the oldest buildings in Freetown's Creol…
- St. George's Cathedral, Freetown – One of the oldest Anglican cathedrals in West Africa, completed in 1828. Its stone tower and stained glass windows reflect Freetown's histo…
- Old Fourah Bay College Building – The ruins of the 19th-century stone buildings of West Africa's first Western-style institution of higher learning. Only the outer walls rem…
- Big Market – A long-established craft market on Wallace Johnson Street in the city center, where you can buy tie-dye cloth, wooden masks, woven baskets…
- Sierra Leone National Railway Museum – Preserves the steam locomotives and carriages of Sierra Leone's defunct narrow-gauge railway, including the carriage used by the British qu…
- Leicester Peak – A hilltop viewpoint south of the city that overlooks all of Freetown, its harbor and the Sierra Leone River estuary. It is the best spot fo…
- Bureh Beach – Home to Sierra Leone's only surf club, with regular long waves, board rentals and lessons, a quiet beach, and affordable seafood meals.
- John Obey Beach – A tranquil long beach on the southwest coast of the peninsula, surrounded by coconut palms and seldom visited. It has an eco-lodge and a se…
- Lakka Beach – One of the peninsula beaches closest to the city. Its small bay has clean sand and gentle waves, and beachside snack bars serve grilled fis…
Where to eat
- Crown Bakery – A long-established bakery restaurant in the city centre, open since 1990; air-conditioned, clean, and popular for Leban…
- Mamba Point Lagoonda – A seaside hotel restaurant in Aberdeen with an ocean-view terrace, known for seafood and Lebanese cold mezze, and rated…
- Alex's Beach Bar – A beachside bar on Man of War Bay run by three brothers, focusing on grilled fish and seafood, with live music on the s…
- Roof Garden Bar – An open-air bar-restaurant on the slope of Wilkinson Road, serving local home-style dishes such as achekeh and foo-foo…
Itineraries
- Sierra Leone Peninsula & Tiwai Island – A comprehensive route covering Freetown's historic sites, a chimpanzee sanctuary, the Tiwai rainforest, and the white s…
- West Africa Six-Country Overland – An epic overland journey heading south from Dakar through six countries to Monrovia, including the Bijagós Archipelago.