Folegandros
A clifftop Cycladic island whose white Chora perches on 200-metre sea cliffs—far quieter than Santorini, with boat trips and hikes to hidden coves.
Folegandros lies in the southwestern Cyclades between Milos and Santorini. It covers about 32 square kilometres and has fewer than a thousand permanent residents. The island is long, narrow and mountainous; its northeastern sea cliffs rise over 200 metres, and the main town, Chora, sits right on the clifftop, preserving the Venetian-era Kastro quarter—the atmosphere is far quieter than Santorini. The best time to visit is June–September, when the sea is warm and ferries run frequently; July–August is the busiest and most expensive, while May and October offer pleasant weather and fewer people, though some businesses and boat trips are closed. When the strong summer north wind (the meltemi) blows, ferries may be delayed. The island divides into three areas: Chora and the Panagia church, for the white town and sunsets; the southeastern port of Karavostasis and its surroundings, plus Katergo beach, reachable only by boat; and the farming villages of Ano Meria in the west, with beaches such as Agali and Livadaki. Getting around is by island bus (linking the port, Chora, Ano Meria and Agali), rental car or scooter, and water taxi; many beaches require a downhill hike. Ferries from Piraeus take about 5–10 hours, or about 1–2 hours from Santorini or Milos. Allow 3–4 days. There is no airport or large supermarket on the island, ATMs are few, and accommodation should be booked well ahead in high season.
Top sights
- Chora – The white main town of the Cyclades, built on top of a 200-metre sea cliff, with several connected squares filled with tavernas and bougain…
- Kastro – A castle-like quarter built by the Venetians in the 13th century, where the house walls join together to form fortifications along the clif…
- Church of Panagia – A white Church of the Virgin Mary on the hilltop northeast of Chora. A zigzag path to the top offers views over the white town and the suns…
- Karavostasis – The island's only port village, with a small pebble beach and seaside tavernas, and the departure point for island boat tours and water tax…
- Katergo Beach – A brilliant blue bay at the southeast corner of the island, reachable only by boat or on foot and framed by rocky headlands; the most beaut…
- Vardia Beach – A small bay just north of the port, a pebble beach enclosed by towering cliffs, a few minutes' walk from where you disembark.
- Livadi Beach – A long sandy beach about 1.5 kilometres south of the port, with shallow, gentle waters, tamarisk shade and a campsite, ideal for family swi…
- Agali Beach – The island's most popular sandy beach in the southwest, at the end of a deep valley, with beach tavernas and accommodation, reachable by bu…
- Agios Nikolaos Beach – A small sandy beach just west of Agali, with emerald water in the shade of tamarisk trees and a white chapel of the same name on the hillsi…
- Livadaki Beach – A secluded bay on the island's west coast, reached by a steep walk down from Ano Meria or by boat, with exceptionally clear water.
- Ampeli Beach – A small west-coast bay below Ano Meria, with fine pebbles, blue-green water and a 20-minute walk down to the sea.
- Agios Georgios Beach – A remote bay at the island's northernmost tip, about an hour's downhill hike from the end of Ano Meria, with a small white chapel by the sh…
- Ano Meria – A farming village strung along a ridge for several kilometres, with stone-walled terraces, threshing floors and traditional tavernas, famou…
- Ecological & Folklore Museum of Ano Meria – A small folk museum in a converted old farmhouse, showing winemaking, bread baking and farm tools from the island's traditional life.
- Chrysospilia Cave – The 'Golden Cave' in the sea cliffs below Chora, with stalactites and ancient inscriptions inside; visible from the sea on island boat tour…
Where to eat
- To Spitiko – A family-run taverna in Chora, opened in 2000 and recommended by several guides as the place to try matsata, the island…
- Agios Nikolaos Beach Taverna – A beach taverna on Agios Nikolaos Bay, across the headland from Agali, serving fresh fish and traditional dishes. A gre…
Itineraries
- Santorini, Folegandros and Crete – Base in Fira, take a ferry to Folegandros for two nights, then make a day trip by fast ferry to Crete to see Knossos.
- Western Cyclades Slow Travel: Milos, Folegandros & Sifnos – A slow-paced journey through Milos, Folegandros, and Sifnos to see white volcanic cliffs, sea caves, and cliffside town…