Fenghuang & Xiangxi

The “Border Town” of Shen Congwen’s writing, with Tuojiang River stilt-house night views, Furong Town (an ancient town hanging off a waterfall) and Aizhai Bridge: the heart of western Hunan culture.

The Xiangxi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture lies in northwestern Hunan, bordering Guizhou, Chongqing and Hubei. The Wuling Mountains run through the whole region, and the prefectural seat is Jishou. The core destination, Fenghuang Ancient Town, is in Fenghuang County in the south of the prefecture. The Tuojiang River flows through the town, where Ming-and-Qing city walls, stilt houses, flagstone streets and Miao and Tujia culture intermingle. It is the hometown that Shen Congwen described in his novel “Border Town” and that Huang Yongyu painted. The trip can extend to Furong Town in Yongshun County (a thousand-year-old town hanging off a waterfall), Aizhai Bridge and the Dehang Miao Village Grand Canyon in Jishou, and Shiba Dong Village in Huayuan County. The area is generally divided into three zones: Fenghuang Ancient Town (stay 1–2 nights; by day explore the old town and the nine sights including Shen Congwen’s former residence, and in the evening enjoy the Tuojiang night views and a bonfire party); Aizhai–Dehang in the Jishou direction (charter a car or take a day tour from Fenghuang, 1 day); and Furong Town (between Fenghuang and Zhangjiajie; you can go from Fenghuang, stay a night in Furong Town to see the waterfall by night, and then continue to Zhangjiajie). Climate: subtropical humid. March–May and September–November are the most comfortable; in spring the old town is often rainy and misty, which gives it a special atmosphere; June–August is hot, but Tuojiang rafting and the night markets are lively, and it is also flood season, when the Tuojiang may be closed to boats during heavy rain; occasional snow in winter. Getting there: Fenghuang Ancient Town Station on the Zhangjiajie–Jishou–Huaihua high-speed railway is about 20 km from the old town (shuttle buses and taxis, about 30 minutes); it is about 2 hours direct from Changsha South. From Jishou Station/Jishou East Station to Fenghuang is about 1 hour by coach; from Zhangjiajie to Fenghuang by bus is about 3.5 hours; Tongren Fenghuang Airport is about 30 km from the old town. We suggest 3–4 days: 2 in Fenghuang, 1 at Aizhai–Dehang, 1 at Furong Town. Tickets: entering the old town is free; the combined ticket for the nine sights is RMB 148 (valid 3 days; includes Shen Congwen’s former residence, Xiong Xiling’s former residence, the Yang Family Ancestral Hall, the Old Town Museum, the second floor of Rainbow Bridge, a section of the Tuojiang boat ride and more); Furong Town is about RMB 100; the combined ticket for the Aizhai Wonder scenic area is about RMB 198. Notes: motor vehicles are banned in the core of the old town, so you reach inns on foot; if you have a lot of luggage, choose a riverside inn with parking; for travel photography and Miao costume experiences, ask about prices for each package; the bar street along the Tuojiang is noisy at night, so those sensitive to noise should stay on the Laoyingshao or Shawan side; in the rainy season, watch for the river level and notices of rafting suspensions.

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