Fakarava

The second-largest atoll in the Tuamotus and a UNESCO biosphere reserve, famed among divers for the shark wall at its south pass, with tranquil, pristine pink-sand beaches and lagoons.

Fakarava lies in the northwest of the Tuamotu Archipelago in French Polynesia and is the archipelago's second-largest atoll. About 60 km long and 25 km wide, its narrow coral islets encircle a vast lagoon, and the entire atoll is a UNESCO biosphere reserve. Only a little over 800 people live here, mostly in Rotoava village at the northern end; Tetamanu at the southern end has just a scattering of guesthouses. The climate is hot and humid year-round at 25–30°C. May–October is the dry season, with calm seas and excellent visibility; in June–July, during the grouper spawning season, hundreds of grey reef sharks can be seen at once in the south pass, making it a pilgrimage for divers. November–April is the rainy season, with occasional cyclones. The atoll divides into two areas. In the north, centred on Rotoava, you can cycle the island's only road to explore the village, Topaka Lighthouse and PK9 beach; the north pass (Garuae Pass) is one of the widest atoll passes in the world and ideal for drift diving. The south is about a 1.5–2-hour boat ride away: the south pass shark wall, the pink-sand beaches and Tetamanu village are usually visited on a day boat trip or by staying in the south, and the Blue Lagoon in the northwest corner also requires a private boat. Getting there: Air Tahiti flies from Papeete to Fakarava Airport (about 4 km west of Rotoava) in about 1 hour; you can also travel by cargo cruise ship. There are no large hotels on the island — accommodation is mainly family-run pensions and a few boutique resorts, and dining options are limited, so book lodging with meals in advance and bring plenty of cash (euros/CFP francs), as ATMs are scarce. Plan to stay 4–6 days, including at least 2–3 dives or snorkelling trips and a day trip by boat to the south. Diving requires certification and advance booking with a dive centre; currents in the passes are strong, so beginners should snorkel or choose dive sites inside the lagoon.

Top sights

• Tumakohua Pass (South Pass) – Fakarava’s most famous dive site, where hundreds of grey reef sharks gather in the channel to form a “shark wall.” It is widely regarded as…
• Garuae Pass (North Pass) – A large atoll channel about 1.6 km wide, the widest pass in French Polynesia. Drift dives reveal sharks, manta rays and dolphins.
• Les Sables Roses (Pink Sand Beach) – Shallow sandbars in the southern part of the atoll, made of pink coral debris. The lagoon shifts from clear water to lake-blue, and it is a…
• Blue Lagoon (Lagon Bleu) – A 'lake within a lake' enclosed by small islets at the northwest corner of the atoll, with shallow turquoise water, fine white sand and fre…
• Tetamanu Village – A former capital site beside the South Pass with an old coral-stone church built in 1874, where you can snorkel with sharks right off the d…
• Rotoava Village – The atoll's only main village, where guesthouses, dive shops and small stores are scattered among the coconut palms, easy to explore by bic…
• Hirifa Beach – A long white-sand beach with coconut palms on the southeast side of the atoll, where the shallow water shows lovely colour gradients and a…
• Fakarava Pearl Farm – A Tahitian black pearl farm near Rotoava where you can watch pearl grafting and harvesting, then choose black pearls on site.
• Topaka Lighthouse – An old stepped, pyramid-shaped lighthouse northwest of Rotoava, built in 1957 from coral stone and the atoll's landmark.
• PK9 Beach – A small lagoon beach at kilometre 9 of the road west of the airport, where a lone coconut palm standing in the water is a popular photo spo…

Where to eat

• Snack du Requin Dormeur – Lunch spot on the beach at Havaiki Lodge, with tables set in the shallow lagoon where reef fish and blacktip reef shark…
• Kori Kori Snack – A lagoon-side snack bar at PK 4, south of Rotoava village and ranked first in Fakarava on TripAdvisor. Coconut raw fish…

Itineraries

• Society Islands & Tuamotu Atolls – A perfect blend of high islands and atolls, flying from Huahine and Bora Bora to Rangiroa and Fakarava.