Exmouth & Ningaloo Reef

On the World Heritage Ningaloo Coast, the reef starts right at the shore: swim with whale sharks Mar–Jul, drift-snorkel Turquoise Bay, explore Cape Range gorges and meet manta rays at Coral Bay.

Exmouth sits at the tip of the North West Cape peninsula in Western Australia, about 1,250 km from Perth, and is the gateway town to the World Heritage Ningaloo Coast (listed in 2011). Ningaloo Reef stretches about 260 km and is one of the world's longest fringing reefs; in many places you can snorkel just a few steps off the beach. The spine of the peninsula is the limestone ranges and gorges of Cape Range National Park, with Exmouth Gulf to the east.

Areas to explore: ① the west coast of Cape Range National Park – drift snorkelling at Turquoise Bay, Oyster Stacks, Lakeside and Sandy Bay, the Milyering Visitor Centre, hiking Mandu Mandu Gorge, and boat tours of Yardie Creek at the southern end; ② the northern tip of the peninsula – sunset at Vlamingh Head Lighthouse, the SS Mildura wreck, Jurabi Turtle Centre, Bundegi Beach and diving at the Navy Pier; ③ scenic drives to Charles Knife Canyon and Shothole Canyon on the east side; ④ the Ningaloo Centre in town; ⑤ Coral Bay, about 150 km south, for snorkelling with manta rays and its shark nursery.

Seasons: whale shark season runs Mar–Jul (peaking Apr–Jun), humpback whales Jun–Nov, turtle nesting Nov–Mar, and you can swim with manta rays year-round. Apr–Oct has the most comfortable weather; summer often tops 40°C and brings a risk of cyclones. Getting there: flights from Perth to Learmonth Airport take about 2 hours; the airport is about 37 km from town, so rent a car or take the shuttle. Driving from Perth takes 2 days. Allow 4–5 days. The national park requires an entry pass, and campsites must be booked online in advance; there are no supplies in the park, so bring plenty of water and sun protection. Book whale shark tours ahead, and when snorkelling inside the reef watch for currents and tides and don't stand on the coral.

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