Elba

The largest island in the Tuscan Archipelago and Napoleon's place of exile, with clear bays, granite beaches and the Monte Capanne cable car, an hour by ferry from Piombino.

Elba (Isola d'Elba) is the largest island in the Tuscan Archipelago and Italy's third-largest island, covering about 224 km². It belongs to the province of Livorno and lies only about 10 km from Piombino on the mainland. Napoleon spent nearly ten months here in his first exile in 1814–1815, leaving behind the Villa dei Mulini in town and the Villa San Martino in the countryside. Iron ore has been mined on the island since Etruscan times, and red mining areas are still visible in the east.

The island divides into three parts. On the central north coast is the main town, Portoferraio (where the ferries arrive), with its Medici-era star-shaped fortifications, old harbour and Napoleonic sites. The west is granite mountain country centred on 1,019 m Monte Capanne, whose summit can be reached by cable car; Marciana and Poggio on its slopes are old-fashioned hill villages, and the beaches on the southern side, such as Fetovaia and Cavoli, have the most beautiful water. The east has the hill town of Capoliveri, the fishing port of Porto Azzurro, the ruins of the Volterraio castle and the Rio Marina mining park. The white-pebble and sandy bays of the north coast, such as Sansone and Biodola, are also popular.

The best time is the June–September beach season; May and September have fewer crowds, warm water and the best value. In July–August Italian holidaymakers flock here, so book ferries and accommodation well ahead. Getting there: Moby and Toremar ferries take about 1 hour from Piombino to Portoferraio (with extra summer sailings to Porto Azzurro and Rio Marina), or you can take a small plane to Marina di Campo Airport. Buses on the island are infrequent, so renting a car or scooter is recommended; the coastal road is twisty with many bends. Allow 3–5 days: one for Portoferraio and the Napoleonic sites, one for the cable car and beaches in the west, one for the hill towns and mines in the east, and the rest for beaches, snorkelling or a boat trip to Pianosa.

Top sights

• Portoferraio – The capital and ferry port of Elba, with Medici-era walls and star-shaped forts embracing the old harbour, where many Napoleon sites are co…
• Villa dei Mulini (Palazzina dei Mulini) – Napoleon's official residence during his exile on Elba, preserving his study, bedroom and book collection, with a garden overlooking the se…
• Monte Capanne Cable Car – Ride an open, “birdcage” gondola from Marciana to the island's highest peak (1,019 metres), where clear days offer views of Corsica and the…
• Fetovaia Beach – A fine white-sand bay sheltered by a headland, where the water shifts from pale green to deep blue, making it Elba's most famous beach.
• Villa San Martino – Napoleon's country summer villa, with finely painted walls in the Egyptian Hall. In front stands the Demidoff Gallery, a later Neoclassical…
• Forte Stella – A 16th-century Medici star-shaped fort at the east end of Portoferraio's old town, with a lighthouse inside. Its walls overlook the harbor…
• Torre della Linguella & Archaeological Museum – The octagonal Matello Tower at the entrance to the old harbor, with the archaeological museum beside it displaying Etruscan and Roman shipw…
• Spiaggia delle Ghiaie – A white pebble beach beside Portoferraio with clear water. The nearshore waters are a marine protected area, and it is within walking dista…
• Spiaggia di Sansone – A small cove of white pebbles and emerald water, backed by white limestone cliffs, rated among Elba's most beautiful beaches.
• Capo d'Enfola – A headland connected to the main island by a narrow isthmus. A loop trail offers views of the bays on either side, and the former tuna proc…
• Spiaggia della Biodola – An open bay on the north coast with fine white sand, shallow water and small waves, and good facilities. It is surrounded by the island's u…
• Marciana & Fortezza Pisana – A medieval stone village on the slopes of Monte Capanne, with narrow alleys and arched passageways. The Pisan fortress at the top of the vi…
• Santuario della Madonna del Monte – An ancient sanctuary on the hillside above Marciana where Napoleon once stayed briefly. A walk up the Way of the Cross path offers distant…
• Marciana Marina – An elegant little fishing harbor on the north coast, with colorful houses, a seaside promenade and a medieval round tower at the end of the…
• Sant'Andrea Beach – A golden sandy cove on the northwest corner, flanked by smooth granite reefs shaped by the sea. Good for sunbathing and snorkeling.
• Elviscot Wreck, Pomonte – A cargo ship wreck in the shallow waters of Pomonte Bay on Elba's west coast, lying in only about 10 meters of water, so you can see the en…
• Cavoli Beach – A coarse, golden granite-sand beach on the south coast with beach bars open at night. The sea cave known as the Blue Grotto can be reached…
• Marina di Campo – The largest seaside resort town on the south coast, with the island's longest fine-sand beach at about 1.4 km, lively nightlife, and boats…
• Lacona Beach – A wide golden beach on the south coast, backed by protected dunes and Mediterranean scrub. It is popular with campers and families.
• Capoliveri – A medieval hilltop town on the southeast peninsula, with a maze of narrow lanes, a plaza viewpoint, and lively nightlife, surrounded by sev…
• Innamorata Beach – The “Lovers' Bay” about 3 km south of Capoliveri, with two small rocky islets, the Gemini Islets, for company, a romantic legend, and a sum…
• Porto Azzurro – A colorful fishing town in a deep bay on the east coast, with a lively seaside square and yacht marina, and the unique Sanctuary of Monserr…
• Fortezza del Volterraio – The ruins of a medieval castle atop a 394-meter rock peak, regarded as the island's oldest fortress, with views over Portoferraio Bay.
• Elba Mining Park, Rio Marina – A mining park on the east coast, converted from a millennium-old iron mining area. It combines a mineral museum with a small train ride thr…
• Pianosa – A flat small island about 14 km southwest of Elba that was closed for over a century as a prison island. Landings are now limited to a set…
• Forte Falcone – The Medici fortress at the highest point of Portoferraio's old town. Its walkway offers 360-degree views of the old harbor, the Star Fort…

Where to eat

• Osteria del Noce – A terrace trattoria in the hilltop village of Marciana, mentioned in nearly every guide to Elban food, with unbeatable…
• Il Castagnacciaio – A pizza shop with a wood-fired oven in use since 1885, where farinata and rectangular pan pizza are the island's afford…
• Capo Nord – A seafood restaurant at the end of the Marciana Marina seafront, with sunset views toward Capraia Island, run by the sa…
• Osteria Pepenero – A modern tavern beside the cathedral in Portoferraio's old town, serving tasting menus built around the day's catch; on…
• Molo G Osteria Portuale – A harbor trattoria inside a yacht shipyard, with marble tables facing the lagoon, a daily chalkboard menu, and a famous…
• Osteria delle Grazie – A seafood trattoria on the stone steps of Capoliveri's old town, where the Tuscan fish stew cacciucco is widely praised.

Itineraries

• Elba Island Coastal Loop – Take a ferry to the island and explore Napoleon's heritage, southwestern beaches, Mount Capanne, and the eastern mining…