Eger

A Baroque old town in Hungary, famed for the legendary defence of its castle against the Ottomans, Bull's Blood tastings in the wine cellars of the Valley of the Beautiful Women, and the exotic touch of its minaret and Turkish bath.

Eger is the capital of Heves County in northern Hungary, set in a valley between the Bükk and Mátra mountains, about 130 km from Budapest – roughly 2 hours by train or 1.5 hours by car. The city is famous for Eger Castle, where István Dobó led the defence against a vast Ottoman army in 1552. Ottoman rule left behind Europe's northernmost minaret and a Turkish bath, while the Baroque old town, rebuilt in the 18th century, is home to the Minorite Church, the Lyceum and Hungary's second-largest cathedral. The old town is compact: the castle, minaret, Dobó Square, the cathedral and the Lyceum can all be covered on foot in a day; in the evening, head to the cellars of the Valley of the Beautiful Women to taste Bull's Blood, then soak in the Turkish bath or the thermal baths. Day trips abound: the Egerszalók Salt Hill travertine terraces are about 6 km away; some 30 km north, Szilvásvárad offers a forest railway into the Szalajka Valley and its Lipizzaner horses; to the northeast are the cave dwellings of Noszvaj, and further on the Lillafüred Palace Hotel and the Miskolctapolca Cave Bath; to the west you can climb Kékes, Hungary's highest peak. The best time to visit is May–Oct, with the grape harvest in Sep–Oct and autumn colours in the Bükk; winters are crisp but ideal for thermal baths. Plan to stay 2–3 days; the city is easily explored on foot, while a car is the most convenient way to reach the surrounding sights.

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