Eduardo Avaroa Reserve (Laguna Colorada & Verde)
A cluster of highland lakes in Bolivia's far southwest, with flamingos on Laguna Colorada, a volcano reflected in Laguna Verde, the Sol de Mañana geysers and the Dalí Desert, at the heart of the Uyuni–Atacama 4WD route.
The Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve (Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa) lies in Sur Lípez, in the far southwest of Bolivia's Potosí Department, bordering Chile and Argentina. It covers about 7,150 square kilometres, mostly at elevations of 4,200–5,900 metres. The reserve is dotted with volcanoes, salt flats and geothermal fields. Its lakes, coloured red, green and white by algae and minerals, attract three species of flamingo, and the area is also home to vicuñas, Andean foxes and highland birds.
The core route is days two and three of the 4WD trip between the Salar de Uyuni and San Pedro de Atacama. Heading from north to south, it passes either the Valle de las Rocas or the highland lakes route (Cañapa, Hedionda, Chiarkota and Honda lakes), crosses the Siloli Desert to see the Árbol de Piedra rock formation, and reaches Laguna Colorada for the night. The next day, set out before dawn for the Sol de Mañana geysers, have breakfast and a soak at the Polques hot springs, then cross the Dalí Desert to Laguna Blanca and Laguna Verde, and continue to the Hito Cajón border post to enter Chile, or return to Uyuni. The village of Quetena Chico and the Uturuncu volcano in the east are suited to more in-depth trips.
The best season is the dry season from April to November, with clear skies and open roads. From June to August, night temperatures can fall as low as -20°C, and from December to March, in the rainy season, some roads become muddy or even close. You must enter on a 4WD tour (including driver, meals and lodging) departing from Uyuni, Tupiza or San Pedro, usually lasting 3 days and 2 nights; self-driving requires high-altitude off-road experience and spare fuel. The reserve entrance fee is about 150 bolivianos, with small additional charges for places such as the hot springs, so bring cash. Accommodation is basic dormitory-style hostels, mostly without heating or hot water, so bring a thick sleeping bag, a down jacket, a headlamp, sun protection and altitude medication, and spend a day or two acclimatising in Uyuni beforehand.
Top sights
- Laguna Colorada – A shallow salt lake at 4,278 m. Algae and minerals turn the water brick-red, and thousands upon thousands of flamingos feed on its surface.
- Laguna Verde – A jade-green salt lake at the foot of the Licancabur volcano, right on the Chilean border. It marks the southernmost stop on the southern c…
- Sol de Mañana Geysers – A geothermal field near 5,000 meters, with bubbling mud pools and sulfur steam vents that look like an alien landscape in the morning sun.
- Árbol de Piedra – A volcanic rock in the Siloli Desert, carved by wind and sand into a tree shape about 7 meters tall, narrow at the base and wide at the top…
- Salvador Dalí Desert – Isolated boulders are scattered across ochre and orange wasteland, with colourful volcanoes behind. The scenery so closely resembles a Salv…
- Polques Hot Springs (Termas de Polques) – Natural open-air hot spring pools on the edge of Salar de Chalviri, with water in the 30s °C. Soak while watching flamingos and snowy peaks…
- Laguna Blanca – A milky-white salt lake right next to Laguna Verde, rich in minerals such as borax, whose surface often reflects the Licancabur and Ollagüe…
- Licancabur Volcano – A perfectly conical volcano on the Bolivia–Chile border, rising to 5,916 m. A crater lake sits at the summit, with Inca ritual remains, and…
- Hito Cajón Border Crossing – The high-plateau border station at the southern end of the reserve, leading to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile, at about 4,480 m. Off-road to…
- Laguna Hedionda – One of the flamingo-richest lakes on the high-altitude lakes route. Its name means 'stinking lake' after its sulphur smell, and an eco-lodg…
- Laguna Cañapa – The first lake on the high-altitude lakes route, where flamingos gather between white salt shores and blue water, with colourful volcanoes…
- Laguna Chiar Khota – Aymara for 'black lake.' Its dark, still water often hosts flamingos, and it offers some of the best reflections on the high-altitude lakes…
- Laguna Honda – A deep-coloured small lake at the south end of the high-altitude lakes route, with white salt shores and flocks of flamingos. Laguna Ramadi…
- Valle de las Rocas – A valley of wind-eroded volcanic boulders shaped like castles and camels. Visitors can climb and photograph them, making it a classic stop…
- Quetena Chico – A high-plateau village in the eastern part of the reserve, with a reserve visitor centre and basic lodgings. It is the base for climbing Ut…
- Uturuncu Volcano – The highest peak in southern Lípez, at about 6,008 m. Off-road vehicles can drive to around 5,700 m, making it one of the easiest 6,000-met…
Itineraries
- Bolivia Classic Highlands Panorama – From La Paz to Isla del Sol, then via the White City and Silver City to Uyuni and the high-altitude lagoons
- Uyuni to Atacama via High-Altitude Lagoons – Cross the salt flats, Laguna Colorada, and Laguna Verde by off-road vehicle, and enter the Chilean desert via the Hito…
- Tupiza Canyons and Sur Lípez to Uyuni – Depart from the red canyons, take the southern route across the lagoons by off-road vehicle, and arrive at the salt fla…