Edinburgh

Scotland's capital, where the medieval Old Town and Georgian New Town share World Heritage status. The August Fringe, the castle and Harry Potter inspirations make it Britain's second most popular destination.

Edinburgh is the capital of Scotland, in the southeast of the country on the south shore of the Firth of Forth, with a population of about 520,000. The city is divided by the valley of Princes Street Gardens. To the south is the medieval Old Town, built on a volcanic ridge and running east from Castle Rock along the Royal Mile to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. To the north is the Georgian New Town, planned in the 18th century, with straight streets and symmetrical squares; the two were inscribed together as a World Heritage Site in 1995. To the east, Arthur's Seat and Calton Hill are two free city high points, while Dean Village and Stockbridge to the northwest and the port of Leith to the north are good for a relaxed half-day stroll. The climate is temperate maritime. Summer highs are around 18–20°C, and it is windy and rainy all year, so carry a windproof, waterproof jacket. May–June and September have steadier weather and moderate crowds. August is the “Festival City,” when the Fringe, the International Festival and the Military Tattoo all run at once; accommodation prices can double or triple and rooms need to be booked months ahead. The December Christmas markets and the Hogmanay New Year's Eve torchlight procession on December 31 are also very popular. Getting there: Edinburgh Airport has a tram (about 35 minutes) and the Airlink 100 bus to the city center; the train from London King's Cross takes about 4 hours 20 minutes to Waverley Station, which sits between the New and Old Towns. Getting around the city is mostly on foot; the Old Town is steep with lots of cobblestones, so wear non-slip shoes. Suggested stay: 2–3 days. Day one: the castle, the Royal Mile and Holyroodhouse. Day two: museums, Victoria Street, Dean Village, and sunset on Calton Hill. Day three: hike Arthur's Seat or join a Highlands day tour. Harry Potter fans can visit Victoria Street, Greyfriars Kirkyard and The Elephant House; whisky lovers can get an introduction at the Scotch Whisky Experience next to the castle.

Top sights

• Edinburgh Castle – A thousand-year-old fortress standing on extinct volcanic rock. It houses the Scottish Crown Jewels and the Stone of Destiny, and is the mo…
• Royal Mile – The main street of the Old Town, linking Edinburgh Castle with Holyrood Palace. It runs about one mile and is lined with churches, narrow l…
• Arthur's Seat – The ancient volcanic remnant at 251 metres in Holyrood Park. In about half an hour's climb, you reach the summit with a 360-degree view ove…
• Calton Hill – A small hill at the eastern end of the New Town, dotted with Greek-style monuments. It is a classic viewpoint for photographing Edinburgh C…
• Palace of Holyroodhouse – The official Scottish residence of the British monarch. Mary, Queen of Scots lived here, and behind the palace are romantic abbey ruins.
• National Museum of Scotland – A free, wide-ranging national museum, from dinosaurs and Dolly the sheep to Scottish history, with a rooftop terrace offering free views of…
• Victoria Street & Grassmarket – A curving street of colorful shopfronts, often cited as one of the inspirations for Diagon Alley, runs downhill to the lively Grassmarket a…
• Princes Street Gardens – A long park at the foot of the castle between the Old and New Towns, built on the former Nor' Loch; the Floral Clock and Ross Fountain are…
• Dean Village – A century-old mill village in the Water of Leith valley, with red-roofed stone houses and arched footbridges, only about a 15-minute walk f…
• Scott Monument – A Gothic spire honouring the writer Sir Walter Scott, standing about 61 metres tall, one of the tallest monuments to a writer anywhere in t…
• St Giles' Cathedral – The 'mother church' of the Church of Scotland on the Royal Mile, with a crown-shaped spire and the Thistle Chapel as its highlight.
• The Scotch Whisky Experience – A whisky attraction at the foot of the castle where you ride a barrel-shaped car to learn about production, then visit the world's largest…
• Camera Obscura & World of Illusions – An optical camera obscura dating from the 1850s, plus five floors of interactive illusions and optical tricks, with a rooftop view over the…
• Greyfriars Kirkyard & Greyfriars Bobby – A historic Old Town graveyard and the setting for the story of Greyfriars Bobby, said to have inspired character names in Harry Potter.
• The Real Mary King's Close – A 17th-century alley buried beneath the Royal Mile, where costumed guides take you back to the age of plague.
• Scottish National Gallery – A national gallery beside Princes Street Gardens, holding masterpieces by Raphael, Vermeer, Monet and leading Scottish painters.
• Scottish Parliament Building – A bold, distinctive contemporary building opposite Holyrood Palace, free to visit, where you can also watch parliamentary debates.
• Royal Yacht Britannia – A former royal yacht of the British monarchy moored at Leith, where you can tour the Queen's bedroom, the state dining room and the crew qu…
• Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh – A botanic garden founded in 1670, known for its rhododendrons, Chinese plant collections and views over the city skyline.
• Our Dynamic Earth – An earth science centre at the foot of Arthur's Seat, using immersive galleries to take you through the Big Bang, glaciers and rainforests.
• Edinburgh Zoo – A century-old zoo on the slopes of Corstorphine Hill, with penguin parades, koalas, Asiatic lions and more as highlights.
• Forth Bridge – A red cantilever railway bridge opened in 1890, a World Heritage Site and a marvel of Victorian engineering.
• Rosslyn Chapel – A small 15th-century chapel covered in intricate stone carvings and mysterious motifs, made famous by The Da Vinci Code.
• Stockbridge & Circus Lane – A bohemian neighbourhood on the north side of the New Town, where the curved Circus Lane with its flower-covered cottages is a favourite ph…
• Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art – Two neoclassical buildings facing each other across the street, housing works by Picasso and Dalí as well as Scottish modern art and famous…
• The Writers' Museum – A 17th-century house down a lane off the Royal Mile, dedicated to three great Scottish writers: Burns, Scott and Stevenson.
• Portobello Beach – An urban beach east of the city centre, with a Victorian promenade where you can stroll, have a coffee and watch the sea.
• Craigmillar Castle – A well-preserved medieval castle ruin on the southeast edge of Edinburgh, where Mary, Queen of Scots once rested.
• Linlithgow Palace – The ruins of a Stewart royal palace beside a loch, the birthplace of Mary, Queen of Scots, with an elaborate fountain in its courtyard.
• Stirling Castle – A royal castle guarding the gateway to the Highlands, with Renaissance-style palace interiors restored to their 16th-century appearance.

Where to eat

• The Scran & Scallie – A Michelin Bib Gourmand pub in Stockbridge by Tom Kitchin's team, famous for its haggis and fish pie.
• Oink (Victoria Street) – A popular Victoria Street spot serving freshly carved whole hog roast rolls until sold out—a great budget-friendly fast…
• The Kitchin – A Michelin-starred restaurant in Leith run by Tom Kitchin, celebrated for its seasonal Scottish ingredients.
• Wedgwood The Restaurant – A husband-and-wife-run restaurant on the Royal Mile, where chef Paul Wedgwood showcases foraged and seasonal Scottish i…
• The Fishmarket Newhaven – A seafood spot by the historic Newhaven Harbour, run by Roy Brett in partnership with a local fishmonger, offering exce…
• Noto – A Michelin-selected restaurant on Thistle Street in the New Town, serving Asian-inspired small plates made with Scottis…
• Mother India's Cafe – An Indian tapas-style restaurant on Infirmary Street in the Old Town, where dishes are ordered to share like Spanish ta…

Itineraries

• Classic Highlands and Isle of Skye Loop – Depart from Edinburgh and loop clockwise through the Highlands via Glencoe, the Isle of Skye, Loch Ness, and Pitlochry.
• Great Britain Classic Loop: England & Scotland – A classic British road trip from London, looping through Bath, the Lake District, Edinburgh, and York.
• Eastern Scotland: Fife to the Cairngorms – Travel from the fishing villages of Fife to Dunnottar Castle, then cross Royal Deeside and the Cairngorms, returning vi…
• London to the Highlands: 10-Day Rail Journey – Take the train north from London to York and Edinburgh, ride the West Highland Line to Skye, and finish in Inverness.