East Sumba

Waingapu is the gateway to eastern Sumba, with mangrove sunsets at Walakiri, the golden grassy hills of Wairinding and the megalithic tombs of Rende's villages — an off-the-beaten-path Indonesian island.

East Sumba covers the eastern part of Sumba Island in Indonesia's East Nusa Tenggara Province. Its capital, Waingapu, has an airport and seaport and is the gateway to the eastern half of the island. The climate here is drier than in West Sumba, and vast rolling savannas set it apart from the rice paddies and jungle of the west, earning it the nickname "Indonesia's African savanna". There are three main routes: the western route follows the main road to the grassy hills of Wairinding and Tanarara, then heads north to Tanggedu Waterfall and Puru Kambera Beach; the eastern route goes to Walakiri Beach for sunsets among its "dancing" mangroves; and the southeastern route visits the megalithic tombs and ikat weaving of royal villages such as Rende and Pau, with a side trip to Waimarang Waterfall. Tarimbang and Watu Parunu on the south coast are a long way off and worth an extra night for surfers and photographers. The best time to visit is the May–October dry season, when the grasslands turn golden and the skies are clear; in the November–April rainy season the savanna turns green, but dirt roads get muddy. Getting there: fly direct from Bali or Kupang to Waingapu. There is almost no public transport on the island, so hire a car with driver or rent a motorbike; drives between sights are long. Plan 3–4 days; you can combine it with West Sumba and fly out from Tambolaka Airport at the western end. Tips: Sumba is a malaria-risk area, so protect yourself from mosquitoes; when visiting villages, respect the traditional Marapu beliefs — register and make a donation on arrival, and ask before photographing people; cash is king, and ATMs are concentrated in Waingapu.

Top sights

• Walakiri Beach – A white-sand shallows famous for its “dancing mangroves” silhouettes, and Sumba’s most popular sunset spot.
• Wairinding Hill – Rolling golden grassland hills stacked one after another, Sumba’s most iconic viewpoint for its grassy landscapes.
• Tanggedu Waterfall – Terraced waterfalls and emerald pools in a canyon known as the “Grand Canyon of Sumba,” with layered rock walls where swimming is possible.
• Puru Kambera – Grassland meets a white-sand beach, where wild horses are often seen grazing by the sea. The clear water is suitable for swimming and snork…
• Rende Village – East Sumba’s most representative royal village, known for tall thatched houses with pointed roofs and richly carved megalithic tombs.
• Prailiu Village – A traditional royal village on the edge of Waikabubak town, with megalithic tombs and ikat weaving workshops, offering a convenient way to…
• Tenau Hill (Bukit Persaudaraan) – The nearest grassland hill viewpoint to Waikabubak, with rolling grass slopes known as “Brothers’ Hill.”
• Mbatakapidu Hill – A grassland hill southwest of Waikabubak with views over winding river valleys and rice fields. It has become a new hot spot for sunset pho…
• Waimarang Waterfall – A waterfall hidden in a forested gorge, with blue-green pools where you can jump from the rock walls into the water. It is known as a “hidd…
• Pau Village – A royal village in the Umalulu area with large megalithic tombs and traditional thatched houses, often visited together with Rende.
• Tanarara Hill – Highland grassland beside the main East–West Sumba road, with rolling hills often wrapped in morning mist. It is a classic stop on a road t…
• Tarimbang Beach – A crescent-shaped white-sand bay on East Sumba’s south coast with consistent waves, a well-known surfing destination on Sumba.
• Watu Parunu Beach – A south-coast beach in East Sumba famous for huge sea-carved rock pillars and natural rock arches. Its striking scenery and few visitors ma…
• Lambanapu Ikat Village – An ikat weaving village just outside Waikabubak, where you can watch the whole process from thread-tying and natural dyeing to hand-weaving.
• Matalawa National Park (Laiwangi Wanggameti) – A mountain rainforest reserve on Sumba, home to the Sumba hornbill and other endemic birds, suited to birdwatching and hiking.
• Padadita Beach – A beach in Waikabubak town where locals gather in the evening to watch the sunset and eat grilled fish. It is a relaxed place for an easy s…
• Londalima Beach – A quiet beach on the northwest outskirts of Waikabubak with broad shallows, good for watching the sunset and seeing local fishermen gather…

Where to eat

• Ikan Bakar Enjoy Aja – A grilled fish stall at the old harbor in Waingapu, where fishermen's daily catch is grilled on the spot. It is a well-…
• Mr. Cafe Restaurant – A long-popular restaurant in Waingapu with a menu that includes local Sumba dishes, Indonesian fried rice, and Western…
• PC Corner Café – A city café on high ground with views over rooftops to the sea. It ranks among the top spots in Waingapu on TripAdvisor.
• Morinda Restaurant – A traditional Sumba-style restaurant in the hills of Kambaniru, south of the city, with thatched pavilions overlooking…

Itineraries

• Sumba East-to-West Crossing – Cross Sumba from Waingapu to Tambolaka to see savannahs, waterfalls, megalithic villages, and Weekuri Lagoon.