East Bali

A quiet coast at the foot of Mount Agung: black-sand snorkeling at Amed, the USAT Liberty wreck dive at Tulamben, and the Gates of Heaven and East Bali's water palaces for the most photogenic day out.

East Bali, centered on Karangasem Regency, is a quiet coastline at the foot of Mount Agung that sees far fewer visitors than Kuta and Ubud in the south and has kept more of its traditional village and fishing-village character. It divides into three main areas: in the north, the Amed–Tulamben coast is famous for black-sand beaches, snorkeling and diving, and the USAT Liberty wreck at Tulamben is a world-class shore dive; in the center, around Amlapura, are the royal water palaces of Tirta Gangga and Ujung and the Gates of Heaven at Lempuyang Temple; in the south, the Candidasa–Padang Bai area has the Bali Aga village of Tenganan, Blue Lagoon and Virgin Beach, and Padang Bai is also the ferry port for Lombok and the Gili Islands. To the west, the rice terraces of the Sidemen Valley are ideal for a slow stay, and fit hikers can climb Mount Agung overnight for sunrise. The best season is the April–October dry season, with calm seas and good visibility; the November–March rainy season brings frequent afternoon showers. From the airport or Ubud it's about 1.5–2 hours to Candidasa and 2.5–3 hours to Amed; getting around requires a hired car with driver or a motorbike. Allow 3–4 days, staying in Amed in the north and Candidasa in the south. A sarong is required to visit temples; lines at the Gates of Heaven are long in peak season, so go early in the morning.

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