Durban

South Africa's surf city on the Indian Ocean, known for the Golden Mile, Indian-style curry bunny chow, uShaka Marine World, the Umhlanga lighthouse and the Valley of a Thousand Hills.

Durban (eThekwini in Zulu) is South Africa's third-largest city and the biggest port in KwaZulu-Natal. On the Indian Ocean, it is warm and humid year-round and is South Africans' favorite beach holiday spot. The city has one of the largest Indian communities outside India, so curry and bunny chow are its signature dishes, and Zulu culture, Hindu temples and mosques sit side by side. Where to go: downtown centers on City Hall, the Victoria Street Market and the Juma Mosque, a good place for Indian spices and Zulu crafts. The 'Golden Mile' seafront stretches from uShaka Marine World to Moses Mabhida Stadium, linking promenades, surf beaches and piers. In the northern suburb of Umhlanga you'll find the lighthouse, the seaside promenade and the KwaZulu-Natal Sharks Board, with the Ballito resort coast farther north. Inland to the west are the Valley of a Thousand Hills, Krantzkloof Gorge and the Tala reserve. Seasons: winter (May–Sep) is dry with little rain and the most comfortable time to visit, and the sardine run can be seen in Jun–Jul; summer (Nov–Mar) is hot with frequent thunderstorms, but the sea is at its warmest. Arrival: King Shaka International Airport, about 35 km north of the city, has flights from Johannesburg and Cape Town. In town, use ride-hailing apps and avoid walking around at night. Allow 2–3 days, and combine with the Drakensberg or St Lucia. Note: downtown safety is mixed, so keep valuables out of sight, and only swim between the lifeguard flags on the beaches.

Top sights

• Golden Mile – A seaside promenade about 6 km long from uShaka to the stadium, linking several lifeguard-patrolled surf beaches and piers.
• uShaka Marine World – One of Africa's largest aquariums, known for its shipwreck-shaped exhibit halls, dolphin shows and water park. A good choice for families.
• Moses Mabhida Stadium – The 2010 World Cup stadium, with a huge arch you can ride up by Skycar or climb on foot for views of the coast, plus the 'Big Swing' that l…
• Victoria Street Market – Durban's old market in the Indian quarter, lined with spice stalls, souvenirs and Indian snacks. You can buy 'Mother-in-law Masala' curry p…
• Juma Masjid Mosque – One of the largest mosques in the Southern Hemisphere, built in 1881, with golden domes and arcades that blend Indian and Islamic styles.
• Durban City Hall – A New Baroque building completed in 1910, modeled on Belfast City Hall, housing the Durban Art Gallery and the Natural History Museum.
• KwaMuhle Museum – Housed in the former Native Affairs Department building from the apartheid era, the museum tells the history of Durban's Black laborers and…
• Durban Botanic Gardens – One of Africa's oldest botanic gardens (founded 1849), known for its cycad collection, orchid house and century-old trees. Admission is fre…
• Mitchell Park – A garden-style small zoo in Morningside, with tortoises, birds and small mammals. A good place for a stroll with kids.
• Florida Road – A dining street in Morningside, with restaurants, bars and cafés in converted colonial-era houses. Lively nightlife.
• Temple of Understanding – The Hare Krishna temple in Chatsworth, its lotus-shaped building surrounded by a moat and gardens. The vegetarian restaurant inside is popu…
• Phoenix Settlement (Gandhi Settlement) – The community Gandhi founded in South Africa in 1904, where he published a newspaper and developed his philosophy of nonviolence. His house…
• Umhlanga Rocks Lighthouse & Promenade – Durban's upscale seaside suburb to the north. The red-and-white lighthouse, wooden pier and seafront promenade make it the city's most phot…
• KwaZulu-Natal Sharks Board – A research institute that manages the shark nets protecting the beaches. You can see shark dissection demonstrations and exhibits, and take…
• Ballito – A holiday town about 40 km north of Durban, with rock pools, gentle beaches and seaside walks ideal for family vacations.
• Valley of a Thousand Hills – Rolling Zulu hills between Durban and Pietermaritzburg. Along the old road you'll find lookouts, a Zulu cultural village and craft shops.
• Krantzkloof Nature Reserve – A forested gorge on Durban's western outskirts, with a waterfall about 90 m high, cliff trails and birds of prey. The top choice for hiking…
• Tala Private Game Reserve – A private game reserve about an hour from Durban, where you can drive or ride to see white rhinos, giraffes, hippos and antelope.

Where to eat

• Goundens – An iconic, budget-friendly canteen-style eatery in Durban, famous for its mutton bunny chow and a prime spot to experie…
• The Little India Restaurant – A highly popular Indian restaurant on Musgrave Road, praised by diners for its butter chicken, lamb curry, and garlic n…
• The Ocean Terrace at The Oyster Box – A curry buffet at the beachfront hotel in Umhlanga, offering at least eleven curries daily, making it a famous ocean-vi…
• The Chef's Table – A fine dining restaurant in Umhlanga serving modern cuisine made with seasonal KwaZulu-Natal ingredients, once voted Be…

Itineraries

• Lesotho Highlands East-West Traverse & Sani Pass – Traverse the highlands east from Maseru to ride ponies, see waterfalls and dams, and descend Sani Pass to Durban.
• Kruger, Eswatini, Zululand & Drakensberg – Drive from Johannesburg to Durban, traversing the east via the Panorama Route, Eswatini, wetlands, and the Drakensberg.