Djibouti City

Port capital at the mouth of the Red Sea: swim with whale sharks in the Gulf of Tadjoura in winter, and drive out to the salt flats of Lake Assal, 155 m below sea level, and the limestone chimneys of Lake Abbe.

Djibouti City is the capital of the Republic of Djibouti, set on a peninsula on the south shore of the Gulf of Tadjoura and guarding the Bab-el-Mandeb Strait at the entrance to the Red Sea. About 60% of the country's population lives here, and it is the only gateway for visitors. The city is compact: the old town in the north centres on Independence Square (formerly Place Ménélik, now Place du 27 Juin), surrounded by French colonial arcades, cafés and restaurants; to the south lies the bustling African Quarter, with the Central Market and the white Hamoudi Mosque. Djibouti's real attractions lie outside the city: about 120 km west, Lake Assal sits 155 m below sea level — the lowest point in Africa — with brilliant white salt flats and water so salty you float; about 150 km southwest, Lake Abbe is dotted with hundreds of limestone chimneys that let off steam at sunrise, like an alien landscape. Along the way you pass the Ghoubbet Bay, Devil's Island, the Ardoukoba volcano that erupted in 1978, and the Grand Bara Desert. Out at sea are the coral reefs of Moucha and Maskali islands, and from November to February you can swim with whale sharks off the Arta coast in the Gulf of Tadjoura. Seasons: November to February is best, with daytime temperatures around 25–30°C; from May to September temperatures often exceed 45°C with hot, dusty winds, so travel is not recommended. Getting there: Djibouti–Ambouli International Airport has flights to Addis Ababa, Dubai, Istanbul, Paris and more, and the Addis Ababa–Djibouti Railway runs to Ethiopia. Almost all sights outside the city require hiring a 4x4 with driver or joining a local tour, and Lake Abbe is usually an overnight trip (with camp accommodation). Tips: prices are high and US dollars or euros in cash are handy; many nationalities can get an e-visa; photographing military sites, the port and government buildings is prohibited; and always carry plenty of water and sun protection in the wild. Plan on 4–6 days.

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