Derry~Londonderry

The only city on the island of Ireland with its walls fully intact, where walks on the walls, the Bogside murals and the Peace Bridge tell a century of Northern Irish history.

Derry (officially Londonderry, often written Derry~Londonderry) is Northern Ireland's second-largest city, near the mouth of the River Foyle, right on the border with County Donegal in the Republic of Ireland and about 110 km from Belfast. The city grew up around a monastery founded here by St Columba in the 6th century, and in the 17th century it became a plantation city built by the livery companies of London. Its walls, built in 1613–1619, survive intact, making it the only city on the island of Ireland with complete city walls. In the second half of the 20th century, it was one of the flashpoints where the Troubles began, and Bloody Sunday took place in the Bogside in 1972.

The climate is mild and wet; May–September brings long days and the best weather. The Halloween festival at the end of October is one of the largest in Europe, with costume parades and fireworks across the city — book accommodation well in advance.

The highlights are in the city centre: first walk a full circuit of the walls, then visit St Columb's Cathedral, the Tower Museum and the Craft Village inside the walls; below the walls to the west, the Bogside has the People's Gallery murals, Free Derry Corner and the Museum of Free Derry; east of the walls are the Guildhall and the Peace Bridge, which crosses to Ebrington Square. Consider joining a political history tour to hear both the Catholic and Protestant narratives. Outside the city you can visit Ness Country Park, the Roe Valley and Benone Strand; the Grianan of Aileach stone fort and the Inishowen Peninsula, 10 km across the border, are covered under the Donegal destination.

Getting there: City of Derry Airport has flights to Great Britain; the train from Belfast takes about 2 hours, with lovely coastal scenery along the way, and there are frequent buses to and from Dublin. The city centre is walkable; allow 1–2 days. Northern Ireland uses pounds sterling, while you will need euros for Donegal. There are no border checks between the UK and Ireland, but check that your car rental insurance covers both.

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Itineraries