Dehua & Yongchun

Dehua, the porcelain capital famed for its "Blanc de Chine", sits next to Yongchun, home of incense, aged vinegar and White Crane kung fu – explore them together with the sea of clouds and rime on Jiuxian Mountain, the striking peaks of Shiniu Mountain and the Niumulin forest.

Dehua and Yongchun are both counties of Quanzhou in Fujian Province, set in the Daiyun Mountains northwest of the city. Their county towns are only about 25 km apart, making them easy to combine. Dehua is known as the "World Capital of Ceramics": in the Song and Yuan dynasties it was a major producer of export porcelain for the Maritime Silk Road, and its ivory-white "Blanc de Chine" won fame across Europe in the Ming dynasty. Yongchun is a well-known hometown of overseas Chinese, celebrated for its bamboo-stick incense, aged vinegar, Foshou (Buddha's Hand) tea, lacquered baskets and Yongchun White Crane kung fu. The mountain climate is cooler than coastal Quanzhou, with frequent fog in spring, pleasant summers for escaping the heat, and occasional rime ice on Jiuxian Mountain in winter.

Areas to explore: ① Dehua town – the Ceramics Museum, the Qudougong kiln site and Zulong Temple, Ceramics Street and Tangzhai Mountain; just outside town, the Yueji Kiln in Sanban offers pottery workshops; ② Dehua's mountains – sunrise over the sea of clouds on Jiuxian Mountain in the north, Daiyun Mountain in the centre, and Shiniu Mountain and Daixian Waterfall in the northeast; ③ Yongchun – Wulijie old street, incense drying in Dapu (the "Incense Capital"), Baizhangyan, the ancient town of Hushan with the Dongguan Bridge, and the Niumulin primeval forest in the west.

Getting there: the nearest airport is Quanzhou Jinjiang International Airport. Expressways link Yongchun with Quanzhou and Xiamen (about 1.5 hours), and Dehua is a 30–40-minute drive from Yongchun. Sights are spread out, so self-driving or hiring a car with driver is recommended. Allow 3 days: one for Dehua's ceramics, one for Jiuxian Mountain or Shiniu Mountain, and one for Yongchun. The best times to visit are Mar–May and Oct–Nov. Note: mountain weather changes quickly – drive slowly on mountain roads in fog.

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