Daugavpils

Latvia's second-largest city, with its 19th-century Russian imperial fortress well preserved; the Mark Rothko Art Centre is housed in the arsenal, and four churches of different faiths stand side by side on Church Hill.

Daugavpils lies on the Daugava River in the Latgale region of southeastern Latvia, near the Lithuanian and Belarusian borders, and is Latvia's second-largest city. Historically known as Dünaburg or Dvinsk, it was a western stronghold of the Russian Empire. Its population is mainly Russian-speaking, and Jewish, Polish, Old Believer and other communities have lived here side by side, so the city's character differs noticeably from Riga's. The main sights cluster in three places: the 19th-century Russian imperial fortress to the north, which houses the Mark Rothko Art Centre (the painter was born here); the city centre, with Riga Street pedestrian mall, the House of Unity and the Regional and Art Museum; and the newer district of Church Hill, where four churches of different denominations stand side by side, with a lead bullet factory that is still in production nearby.

For day trips, go 20–30 kilometers northeast to the Daugava Bend Nature Park to climb an observation tower and visit an Old Believer village, or travel about 50 kilometers to Aglona Basilica for pilgrimage. June to September is mild and pleasant. August 15, the feast of the Assumption at Aglona, is the liveliest time. Autumn turns the river-bend forests beautiful colors. Winters are cold and snowy, and some sights have shorter opening hours.

Getting there: From Riga it takes about 3 to 3.5 hours by train or bus. The city has trams: Route 1 goes to the fortress, and Route 3 goes to Stropu Lake. Plan 1-2 days.

Top sights

• Mark Rothko Art Centre – A contemporary art centre housed in the fortress arsenal, showing original works by abstract expressionist master Mark Rothko, who was born…
• Daugavpils Fortress – A Russian Imperial fortress built in the 1810s, with bastions, gates and barracks largely intact, making it one of the most complete 19th-c…
• Church Hill – Four churches of different faiths, Orthodox, Catholic, Lutheran and Old Believer, stand side by side on a small hill in the new district, a…
• Saints Boris and Gleb Cathedral – One of Latvia's largest Orthodox churches, with white walls, blue-and-gold onion domes and a gilded iconostasis inside.
• Rīgas iela & Unity House – A pedestrian shopping street in the city center, lined with 19th-century brick buildings and ending at the 1930s functionalist Unity House.
• Daugavpils Regional and Art Museum – A city museum in an Art Nouveau mansion, covering the history of Latgale, folk culture, nature and works by local artists.
• Daugavpils Shot Factory – A lead-shot factory built in 1885 and still in operation. Visitors can climb its 30-metre shot tower, and guided tours include a shooting e…
• Daugavpils Synagogue – The city's only surviving synagogue, housing an exhibition on the history of the Jewish community and materials related to the Rothko famil…
• Latgale Zoo – A small indoor zoo focused on reptiles, amphibians and tropical fish. Compact and easy to visit, it suits families or a rainy-day stop.
• Lake Stropi – A forest lake northeast of the city, with a beach, trails and cycle paths. Locals come here to swim and walk in summer.
• Daugava River Bends & Vasargelišķi Tower – The Daugava winds through the forest in a series of great bends. The observation tower overlooks its S-shaped valley, one of eastern Latvia…
• Slutiški Old Believers' Village – A well-preserved Old Believer Russian village on the banks of the Daugava, with blue carved wooden houses and a farmhouse museum.
• Aglona Basilica – Latvia's most important Catholic pilgrimage site, an 18th-century Baroque basilica with twin towers. Huge crowds gather here every August 1…

Where to eat

• Gubernators – A long-established restaurant in a brick-vaulted cellar in the city centre, decorated with samovars and vintage objects…
• Arsenāls Café – A café inside the Mark Rothko Art Centre at the Daugavpils Fortress. Mushroom soup and a range of pancakes make a popul…
• PLAZA Panorama Restaurant – A panoramic restaurant on the 10th floor of the Park Hotel Latgola in the city centre, with a menu dedicated to Latgali…