Zhaotong

A highland city in the Wumeng Mountains, with Dashanbao's wintering black-necked cranes, the Jigong Mountain Grand Canyon, Zhaotong Old Town and apple orchards — the grand, wide-open landscapes of northeastern Yunnan.

Zhaotong lies in northeastern Yunnan, deep in the Wumeng Mountains, bordering Sichuan to the north and Guizhou to the east. A gateway from Yunnan to Sichuan and Guizhou, it was known as Zhuti during the Han and Jin dynasties. The urban district of Zhaoyang sits on the Zhaolu Basin at about 1,900 m, with cool summers and cold, dry winters. Dashanbao, about 60–80 km west of the city at around 3,000 m, is home to the Dashanbao Black-necked Crane National Nature Reserve, a Wetland of International Importance.

Best time to visit: From November to March, black-necked cranes winter at Dashanbao — this is crane-watching season, but the plateau is bitterly cold and roads are often icy. The meadows are greenest in Jul–Sep, while Sep–Oct brings ripe apples and crisp, clear weather, a good time to combine the meadows with fruit picking.

Where to go: ① Dashanbao — the Jigong Mountain Grand Canyon, Tiaodun River, Dahaizi Lake and alpine meadows; stay a night in town to catch the sunrise over a sea of clouds; ② Zhaoyang city — Doujie and Wenyuan streets in Zhaotong Old Town, Wanghai Park, Shenggengtang, Zhaotong Museum, Dalongdong, and the Long Family Ancestral Hall southwest of the city; ③ Around Zhaotong — Tuogu Mosque in Ludian, the apple orchards of Sayu, and Huanglian River Waterfalls in Daguan County to the north.

Getting there and around: Zhaotong Airport has flights to Kunming, Chengdu and other cities, and bullet trains from Zhaotong Station reach Kunming (about 2.5 hrs). There is no convenient public transport to Dashanbao, so hire a car with driver or drive yourself. Allow 2–3 days: one in the city and one or two at Dashanbao. Local food includes xidoufen (pea porridge), Zhaotong chili sauce, gastrodia chicken with ham, buckwheat rice and apples. Watch out for altitude sickness, protect yourself from the sun, dress warmly, and always keep your distance when watching the cranes.

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