Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve
A blackwater lagoon reserve in the Ecuadorian Amazon: stay at a jungle lodge, canoe to spot pink river dolphins, sloths and monkeys, swim and watch the sunset in the Laguna Grande, and visit a Siona community.
Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve lies in Sucumbíos Province in northeastern Ecuador, right by the borders with Colombia and Peru. Covering about 6,000 km², it is one of the most biodiverse protected areas in Ecuador's Amazon region. Its hallmark is its blackwater rivers and lagoons: the tannin-rich water is tea-colored, and in the rainy season it overflows to create vast flooded forests, home to pink river dolphins, anacondas, caimans, more than ten monkey species and over 500 bird species. Visits almost always take the form of 3–5-day all-inclusive jungle lodge packages. On day one you drive from Lago Agrio to the Cuyabeno Bridge, then switch to a motor canoe for about 2–3 hours along the Cuyabeno River to lodges near the Laguna Grande. The following days are spent spotting wildlife by motorboat and paddle canoe, swimming and watching the sunset in the Laguna Grande, gliding through the flooded forest, taking day and night jungle walks, and visiting the Siona community of Puerto Bolívar to learn how to make cassava bread. More in-depth itineraries continue along the Aguarico River to visit Secoya communities. Getting there: take an overnight bus from Quito (about 8 hours) or fly about 40 minutes to Lago Agrio, where lodges arrange transfers. Seasons: Mar–Jul is high-water season, when the lagoons are fullest; Aug–Nov brings medium water levels; in the Dec–Feb dry season some channels and the Laguna Grande may dry up, and itineraries are adjusted. Tips: a yellow fever vaccination is recommended, and ask your doctor about malaria prevention; bring long sleeves and trousers, a rain jacket, a headlamp, insect repellent and dry bags. Lodges have limited electricity and almost no internet. Respect Indigenous communities and ask permission before taking photos.
Top sights
- Laguna Grande – The black-water lagoon at the heart of the reserve, where submerged trees look like an ink painting. At dusk, you can swim in the middle of…
- Cuyabeno River – The winding black-water river that runs from the entrance bridge to Laguna Grande. A motorized canoe trip takes about 2 to 3 hours, with mo…
- Flooded Forest – Forest flooded by black water during the rainy season, where canoes glide between the treetops. Reflections on the water and aerial roots c…
- Laguna Canangueno – A smaller lagoon southwest of the Laguna Grande with few jungle lodges nearby. It is quiet and good for birdwatching and boating.
- Siona Community of Puerto Bolívar – A Siona village on the Cuyabeno River where visitors can learn to make cassava bread and explore shamanic and traditional medicine culture.
- Lodge Area & Rainforest Night Walk – A cluster of rainforest lodges on the north shore of the Laguna Grande. By day, trails reveal plant life; at night, flashlights reveal wolf…
- Cuyabeno Bridge (Reserve Entrance) – The reserve's main entrance and boarding point. It is about 2 hours by vehicle from Lago Agrio, where visitors transfer to canoes to enter…
- Secoya Community of San Pablo – A Secoya village on the Aguarico River where visitors can learn about traditional longhouses, handicrafts and rainforest knowledge of hunti…
- Aguarico River – A broad whitewater river along the southern edge of the reserve, linking the Secoya and Cofán communities. It is the waterway for traveling…