Curtea de Argeș & Transfăgărășan
The old capital of Wallachia and home of the royal necropolis at Curtea de Argeș Monastery; just to the north lie Poenari Castle, linked to the real-life Dracula, and the Transfăgărășan high mountain road.
Curtea de Argeș lies in Argeș County in south-central Romania, at the mouth of the Argeș valley on the southern foothills of the Southern Carpathians (the Făgăraș Mountains), about 180 km from Bucharest and 38 km from Pitești. In the 14th century it was the first capital of the Principality of Wallachia, and it preserves the Princely Court and one of the oldest churches in Romania; the 16th-century Curtea de Argeș Monastery is the burial place of Romania's royal family.
Heading north from town along the Argeș River brings you to the Transfăgărășan (DN7C), dubbed one of the “most beautiful roads in the world”: it passes Poenari Castle of Vlad III, the inspiration for Dracula, and the Vidraru Dam and reservoir, then climbs in hairpins to the glacial lake of Bâlea at 2,042 m before tunnelling through and descending to the Sibiu side. The high section of the road is usually open from July to October each year and closed the rest of the time; summer weekends are busy, so set off early in the morning.
Climate: in summer it is hot in the valley and cool up high, with July–September the best time; in October the forests turn to autumn colours, but the road may close at any time due to snow; in winter you can still visit the monastery in town.
Suggested itinerary: on day one, visit the monastery, the Princely Court and the railway station in town; on day two, drive the Transfăgărășan, climb the 1,480 steps to Poenari Castle, enjoy the views or bungee jump at the Vidraru Dam, then continue up to Bâlea Lake (for details of the dam, castle, Bâlea Lake and waterfall, see the Sibiu & Sighișoara destination); you can also head east to Cozia Monastery. Trains and buses connect the town with Pitești and Bucharest, but in the mountains you will need your own car or a private tour. Brown bears roam the area — never get out of the car to feed them.
Top sights
- Curtea de Argeș Monastery – The 16th-century main church built by Wallachian prince Neagoe Basarab, its exterior sculpted like a jewel box, and the royal burial place…
- Princely Court & Princely Church of St. Nicholas – The 14th-century princely court ruins of the Principality of Wallachia. The Princely Church of St. Nicholas is one of Romania's oldest surv…
- Sân Nicoară Church Ruins – Ruins of a 14th-century church on a small hill opposite the Princely Court, with a distinctive architectural style. From the wooded slope y…
- Curtea de Argeș Railway Station – A neo-Romanian style station completed in 1898 that looks like a small castle, often hailed as one of Romania's most beautiful railway stat…
- Cozia Monastery – A monastery founded in 1388 on the banks of the Olt River gorge, where Prince Mircea the Elder is buried. It is one of the oldest monasteri…
- Corbii de Piatră Rock Monastery – A rock-cut church carved into a 15-meter-high sandstone cliff, with 14th-century frescoes. It is one of Romania's oldest rock monasteries.
- Valea lui Stan Canyon – A narrow quartzite gorge near the Vidraru Dam, where you climb chains, ladders, waterfalls and boulders. It is the most thrilling hike in t…
- Horezu Monastery – A UNESCO World Heritage Orthodox monastery and masterpiece of the Brâncovenesc style in Wallachia, celebrated for its frescoes and stone ca…
Where to eat
- Subcarpați Bistro – The town's top-rated industrial-style bistro, serving burgers, Angus steak and Romanian platters. A popular stop before…
- La Conac – A Romanian restaurant in a historic manor house, with a terrace and parking. Homemade bread, grilled ribs and various s…
Itineraries
- Romania Grand Circle Road Trip – Drive through the Southern Carpathians, Bucovina, Maramureș, and Transylvania to see all the major World Heritage Sites…
- Carpathian High Roads Road Trip – Drive the spectacular Transfăgărășan and Transalpina high mountain roads in summer, connecting historic castles and Sib…