Cuenca, Ecuador

A colonial city high in the Andes, with the blue domes of the New Cathedral, Panama hat workshops and the alpine lakes of nearby Cajas National Park.

Cuenca lies in Azuay Province in the Andes of southern Ecuador, at about 2,550 m, and is the country's third-largest city. Originally a Cañari settlement, it later became Tomebamba, the second capital of the Inca Empire, and the Spanish founded their city on top of it in 1557. Its grid of streets and colonial and republican-era buildings are well preserved, and the historic center was declared a World Heritage Site in 1999. Four rivers run through the city, with the Tomebamba River separating the old town from the new. The highland climate is mild, with daytime temperatures around 18–22°C and nights around 8–10°C year-round; Jun–Nov is drier, while afternoon showers are common the rest of the year. The most distinctive events are Independence Day in early November and the Pase del Niño children's procession on Christmas Eve. Key areas: the historic center (Parque Calderón, the New and Old Cathedrals, the flower market and numerous churches and museums); the banks of the Tomebamba River and Calle Larga; the Inca ruins of Pumapungo in the southeast; the Turi lookout to the south; the hot springs of Baños nearby; Cajas National Park to the west; the craft towns of Gualaceo and Chordeleg to the east; and the ruins of Ingapirca to the north. Getting there: Cuenca's airport has domestic flights from Quito and elsewhere, and the drive from Guayaquil via Cajas takes about 3.5–4 hours; in the city there is a tram and taxis, and the old town is easily walkable. Allow 3–5 days. Tips: take it easy at altitude and avoid strenuous activity for the first two days; the UV is strong, so use sun protection; Cajas reaches nearly 4,000 m and the weather changes quickly, so bring warm and waterproof layers. Ecuador uses the US dollar.

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