Cotonou

Benin’s economic hub and gateway: the bustling Dantokpa Market, boat trips to the stilt village of Ganvié on Lake Nokoué, the Slave Route and “Door of No Return” in Ouidah to the west, the capital Porto-Novo to the east, and the World Heritage Royal Palaces of Abomey to the north.

Cotonou is Benin’s largest city and economic centre, on the Gulf of Guinea between Lake Nokoué and the Atlantic. Although the official capital is Porto-Novo, about 30 km to the east, government offices, the international airport and the port are all here. The city itself has few sights; the highlights are Dantokpa, one of West Africa’s largest open-air markets, the new waterfront landmark Amazon warrior statue, Place de l’Étoile Rouge and the red-and-white-striped cathedral, while the Fondation Zinsou offers a window onto contemporary African art. The truly memorable experiences are nearby: to the north, a boat trip to the stilt village of Ganvié on Lake Nokoué; 40 km to the west, Ouidah, a former slave-trade hub and centre of Vodun, where the Slave Route, the Door of No Return, the Python Temple and the Sacred Forest can be covered in a day, with the seaside town of Grand-Popo further west; to the east, Porto-Novo with its Afro-Brazilian-style Great Mosque and ethnographic museum; and about 3 hours north, the World Heritage Royal Palaces of Abomey. Climate: the Nov–Mar dry season is most comfortable (with Harmattan dust Dec–Feb), and Apr–Jul is the main rainy season; the Vodun Festival on January 10 is liveliest in Ouidah. Getting there: Cotonou airport has flights to Paris, Casablanca, Addis Ababa and elsewhere; Chinese travellers need to obtain an e-visa in advance and be vaccinated against yellow fever. In town, getting around is mainly by motorbike taxi (zémidjan) and taxi; for excursions, hire a car with a driver-guide. Recommended stay: 3–4 days.

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