Coober Pedy
The opal capital of the world, where residents live in underground dugouts — visit underground churches and mines, fossick through mullock heaps for opals, and see the moonlike landscape of the Breakaways.
Coober Pedy lies in the outback of northern South Australia, on the Stuart Highway about 850 km north of Adelaide, and is the most popular stopover on the way from Adelaide to Uluru/Alice Springs. It produces most of the world's white opal and calls itself the "Opal Capital of the World"; the town's name comes from an Aboriginal language and is often interpreted as "white man's hole". Summer temperatures often exceed 45°C, and about half the residents live in dugouts carved out of sandstone, which stay at around 23–25°C year-round; the town also has underground churches, underground hotels, and underground shops and bars, creating a truly unique landscape. Main things to do: in the town centre, walk to Umoona Opal Mine & Museum, the Old Timers Mine, Faye's Underground Home, several underground churches and the Big Winch lookout; drive out of town to the Serbian Orthodox underground church and fossick through the mullock heaps for opals in the public noodling area; about 30 km north, the Breakaways Reserve, the Moon Plain and the Dog Fence make up a sunset loop of about 70 km. The best season is Apr–Oct, with mild days and cool nights — winter nights can drop to near 0°C; summer is scorching and full of flies, so keep outdoor activities to early morning and late afternoon. Getting there: there are several flights a week from Adelaide, or take a long-distance coach (about 11 hours) or drive (about 9–10 hours); Manguri station, where The Ghan stops, is about 40 km from town. Allow 1–2 nights, including at least one night in an underground hotel. Note: the mining fields are dotted with unfenced shafts — don't enter private claims or walk backwards; when driving in the outback, fill up with fuel and carry plenty of water, as unsealed roads may close after rain.
Top sights
- Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park – A wilderness of colourful flat-topped mesas about 30 kilometres north of town, where orange, red and white alternate at sunset: Coober Pedy…
- Umoona Opal Mine & Museum – An underground museum in an old opal mine in the town centre, where you can explore the tunnels and underground dwellings and learn about h…
- Serbian Orthodox Church of St Elijah – An Orthodox church carved underground into sandstone in 1993; the arched ceiling with cutting marks, stained-glass windows and icons are st…
- Old Timers Mine – A historic mine dug by hand in 1916, where visitors can walk through narrow tunnels on their own and see opal seams still left in the rock.
- Faye's Underground Home – An underground home dug in the 1960s by three women using hand tools, complete with an underground swimming pool, a typical example of life…
- Moon Plain – A barren, flat stony plain northeast of town, covered in loose rocks and devoid of plant life, resembling the surface of the Moon and used…
- Dog Fence – One of the longest fences in the world, stretching more than 5,600 km to keep dingoes out, and visible up close on the Breakaways loop.
- Catacomb Church – An Anglican underground church carved in 1977, with a quietly simple cross-shaped cave, and one of the town’s earliest underground churches.
- Saints Peter and Paul Catholic Church – The first underground church in Coober Pedy, completed in 1965 in the town center, with rounded cave chambers and warm, simple statues.
- The Big Winch Lookout – A giant mining winch model on a small hill in the town center, offering the best vantage point over the “underground town” dotted with vent…
- Josephine's Kangaroo Sanctuary & Art Gallery – A rescue sanctuary for joeys that lost their mothers in road accidents, where you can watch feeding up close in the evening and browse an A…
- Public Noodling Area (Jeweller's Shop) – A designated area on the edge of town where visitors can search mine tailings for free, with hunting for opal fragments as the signature ex…
- Coober Pedy Drive-In – A desert drive-in cinema opened in 1965, where the sign on the screen banning explosives has made it a popular photo spot.
- Crocodile Harry's Underground Nest – The eccentric underground home of “Crocodile Harry,” a legendary crocodile hunter and miner, its walls covered in graffiti by visitors and…
Where to eat
- John's Pizza Bar – The most-reviewed long-standing pizza spot on the main street, famous for its “Coat of Arms” pizza topped with kangaroo…
- Outback Bar & Grill – A roadside restaurant and bar on the Stuart Highway, best known for its Greek-style charcoal-grilled lamb souvlaki and…
- Big Winch 360 Café Bar – A café bar at the Big Winch 360 site on the town's highest point, overlooking the mining town and the Breakaways, ideal…
Itineraries
- Explorer's Way: Adelaide to Alice Springs – Drive north along the Stuart Highway via the Flinders Ranges and Coober Pedy to Uluru and Alice Springs.