Cody
Buffalo Bill's Wild West cowboy town and the east gateway to Yellowstone, with nightly rodeos, a cluster of Western museums and the Beartooth Highway.
Cody lies on the western edge of the Bighorn Basin in northwestern Wyoming. The seat of Park County, with about 10,000 residents, it was co-founded in 1896 by William "Buffalo Bill" Cody and named after him. About 80 km from Yellowstone National Park's East Entrance, the town is known for its cowboy culture: professional-level rodeos run almost every night in summer, the Buffalo Bill Center of the West is the country's foremost complex of Western museums, and the Irma Hotel and Old Trail Town preserve the feel of the frontier era.
Sights fall into three areas. Downtown (the Center of the West, the Irma Hotel, Sheridan Avenue, Old Trail Town and the rodeo grounds) takes 1–2 days. To the west, the Wapiti Valley scenic byway follows the North Fork of the Shoshone River to Yellowstone's East Entrance, passing Buffalo Bill Dam, the quirky Smith Mansion and Pahaska Tepee. To the north, the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway climbs over Dead Indian Pass and can be linked with the Beartooth Highway to make a loop (the Beartooth Highway is covered under the Yellowstone destination). To the northeast are the Heart Mountain WWII Japanese American incarceration site and the McCullough Peaks wild horse area.
The best season is Jun–Sep: the nightly rodeo runs every evening Jun–Aug, the Cody Stampede on July 1–4 is the liveliest event, and Yellowstone's East Entrance is open from about early May to early November. Winters are cold and the East Entrance closes, but you can ice climb on frozen waterfalls nearby or ski at a small local ski area. Getting there: Yellowstone Regional Airport (COD) has flights to and from Denver and Salt Lake City; there's no public transit, so you'll need a car. Plan on 2–3 days, and use Cody as your base for entering and leaving Yellowstone from the east. Bears roam the backcountry, so carry bear spray when hiking.
Top sights
- Buffalo Bill Center of the West – One of the most important museum complexes of the American West. Five museums cover Buffalo Bill's life, Plains Indian culture, Western art…
- Cody Nite Rodeo – Nightly rodeo in the 'Rodeo Capital of the World', featuring saddleless bronc riding, bull riding, calf roping and barrel racing. It is Cod…
- Old Trail Town – A Western town rebuilt from 26 nineteenth-century log buildings. It includes the Hole-in-the-Wall Gang hideout linked to Butch Cassidy, and…
- Irma Hotel – A hotel built by Buffalo Bill in 1902 and named after his daughter. Its cherry-wood bar is said to be a gift from Queen Victoria, and in su…
- Downtown Cody & Sheridan Avenue – Cody's main street, where early-20th-century buildings house saddle shops, cowboy hat stores, galleries and steakhouses. You can ride a vin…
- Buffalo Bill Dam – Completed in 1910 as the tallest concrete arch dam in the world at the time, it spans the Shoshone Canyon. A walkway on the crest overlooks…
- Wapiti Valley (Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway) – The river valley from Cody to Yellowstone's East Entrance, which Theodore Roosevelt called 'the most beautiful 52 miles in America.' Weathe…
- Smith Mansion – A crooked, multi-storey log 'castle' in Wapiti Valley, built single-handedly by its owner over nearly two decades. It is a popular photo st…
- Pahaska Tepee – A hunting lodge built by Buffalo Bill in 1904, about 3 km outside Yellowstone's East Entrance. The log house keeps its original furnishings…
- Heart Mountain Interpretive Center – The former site of a camp that held over ten thousand Japanese Americans during World War II. The memorial tells the history through recons…
- McCullough Peaks Wild Horses – Over a hundred wild horses roam the desert hills east of Cody. You can drive the dirt tracks yourself or join a local wild-horse viewing to…
- Shoshone River Rafting – Rafting on the Shoshone River just outside Cody. The Red Canyon section suits families, the upper section has bigger waves, and it is the m…
- Dead Indian Pass Overlook – The highest point on the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, at about 2,450 metres, overlooking Sunlight Basin, Clarks Fork Canyon and distant mount…
Where to eat
- Cody Cattle Company Dinner Show – Cody's top-ranked chuckwagon-style barbecue dinner with cowboy music, which can be paired with the Cody Nite Rodeo.
- Irma Hotel Restaurant – A historic hotel restaurant built by Buffalo Bill in 1902, with an all-you-can-eat barbecued rib buffet beside a cherry…
- Cody Steakhouse – A popular steakhouse on downtown Sheridan Avenue, serving bison ribeye, Angus steak, and Wyoming-style chicken-fried st…
Itineraries
- Beartooth Highway, Cody and Yellowstone Loop – From Bozeman, cross the Beartooth Highway to Cody, enter Yellowstone by the East Entrance, and exit by the West Entranc…