Cochabamba

Bolivia's "city of eternal spring" and food capital, watched over by the hilltop Cristo de la Concordia, and the gateway to Torotoro National Park and its dinosaur tracks.

Cochabamba is Bolivia's third-largest city and capital of the department of the same name. It sits in a fertile valley at about 2,560 m in the eastern Andes, backed to the north by Tunari, which rises over 5,000 m. Thanks to its mild climate, it is known as the "City of Eternal Spring", and it is widely regarded as Bolivia's food capital: silpancho, pique macho, salteñas and chicha (corn beer) all originated or are hugely popular here. The sights are concentrated: the colonial centre around Plaza 14 de Septiembre (the cathedral, the Santa Teresa convent and the Archaeological Museum), the vast La Cancha market to the south, the Prado avenue and the tin baron's Palacio Portales to the north, and the Cristo de la Concordia atop San Pedro hill to the east. Nearby you can visit the old town of Tarata, the pilgrimage site of Quillacollo, Hacienda Pairumani and the ruins of Inkallajta and Incarakay. Torotoro National Park, 4–5 hours' drive to the south, is famous for its dinosaur tracks, canyons and caves; plan on staying 2 nights. The best time to visit is the dry season, Apr–Oct; in the Dec–Mar rainy season some mountain roads become impassable. Cochabamba's airport has frequent flights to La Paz and Santa Cruz, and long-distance buses connect it with the rest of the country. Allow 3–5 days (including Torotoro). Pickpocketing is common around the markets and the bus terminal; take a taxi at night.

Top sights

• Cristo de la Concordia – A giant statue of Christ on the summit of San Pedro Hill, taller than the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio. Take a cable car up to see the…
• Torotoro National Park – Thousands of dinosaur footprints, canyons up to 300 meters deep, and the Umajalanta caves make this Bolivia's most unusual national park.
• La Cancha Market – Said to be one of the largest open-air markets in South America, its stalls spread across dozens of blocks and sell everything from alpaca…
• Palacio Portales – The French-style palace of Simón Patiño, the 'Tin King.' Marble, silk, and Italian gardens reflect the luxury of the early 20th century.
• Plaza 14 de Septiembre & Cathedral – The colonial-era central square, surrounded by arcades, palms, and the Cathedral of San Sebastián. It is the starting point for a walk thro…
• Inkallajta – The largest Inca fortress on the southeastern frontier of the Inca Empire. Its giant great hall, the Kallanka, was one of the largest singl…
• Convento de Santa Teresa – An 18th-century Carmelite convent museum. Two churches are nested within one building, and a guided tour leads to a rooftop view over the c…
• Tunari National Park – A protected Andean area that surrounds the city's northern side. Its main peak, Tunari, rises to about 5,035 meters, and there are high-alt…
• Archaeological Museum of UMSS – One of Bolivia's most important archaeological museums, with mummies, Tiwanaku pottery, and artifacts from Amazonian peoples.
• Quillacollo & Urkupiña Sanctuary – A pilgrimage town west of the city. The Virgin of Urkupiña festival in August is one of Bolivia's three major folk festivals.
• Tarata – A well-preserved colonial town with whitewashed walls, red-tiled roofs, a clock tower, and a Franciscan monastery. It is also the hometown…
• Villa Albina (Pairumani) – The estate villa and mausoleum of Simón Patiño and his wife. Its French furniture and gardens feel more lived-in than Palacio Portales.
• Inka Raqay – An Inca waystation on a ridge west of the city, overlooking the entire Cochabamba Valley. It suits short hikes and sunrise viewing.
• El Prado (Avenida Ballivián) – A tree-lined pedestrian boulevard in the city center, lined with cafés, restaurants, and bars. It is where locals stroll and meet.
• Laguna Alalay – A large, shallow lake southeast of the city, home to Andean flamingos and other waterbirds. The best views are from the hilltop of the Cris…

Where to eat

• Casa de Campo – A traditional Cochabamba restaurant founded in 1982, known for its trademarked Pique Lobo, which comes in huge portions…
• Palacio del Silpancho – A budget-friendly old-timer on Baptista street in the city center that specializes in silpancho. The menu has only two…
• La Cantonata – An old-school Italian restaurant founded in 1988, serving fresh pasta made daily in a quiet, candlelit room. It is the…

Itineraries

• Cochabamba and Torotoro Canyon – See the Christ statue in the culinary city, then transfer to the dinosaur footprints, canyons, and cave park