Cirebon

An old sultanate port on Java's north coast, with four royal palaces and the Sunyaragi water-cave palace blending Islamic, Chinese and Hindu styles, and its famous cloud-motif batik.

Cirebon lies on the north coast of Indonesia's West Java Province, on the border with Central Java, about 220 km from Jakarta and 130 km from Bandung. One of the oldest ports on Java's north coast, it became the capital of an Islamic sultanate from the 15th century, founded by Sunan Gunung Jati, one of the Wali Songo, the nine saints of Javanese Islam. Sundanese, Javanese, Arab and Chinese cultures have long mingled here, as seen in the Chinese porcelain plates set into palace walls, the cloud-motif (megamendung) batik, and the distinctive Cirebon dialect and cuisine. The main sights are clustered in the south of the old town: the Kasepuhan, Kanoman and Kacirebonan palaces and the Sang Cipta Rasa Grand Mosque are close together, so you can do a 'palace tour' on foot or by becak (cycle rickshaw). On the southwestern outskirts is the Sunyaragi water-cave palace, to the west is the Trusmi batik village, and to the north is the tomb of Sunan Gunung Jati; around the old harbor are a Guanyin temple, the Talang temple and colonial buildings. About 25 km south is Linggarjati, at the foot of Mount Ciremai. The climate is hot and humid; the May–Sep dry season is best, while the Nov–Mar rainy season brings frequent downpours. The train from Jakarta (Gambir to Cirebon station) takes about 3 hours, and since the toll road opened, driving is easy too; Kertajati International Airport is about 1 hour from the city. Plan to stay 1–2 days. Must-try dishes include Nasi Jamblang, rice served in teak leaves with a spread of side dishes; Empal Gentong beef soup; and Tahu Gejrot, fried tofu in a sweet, sour and spicy sauce. The population is mostly Muslim, so dress modestly at religious sites.

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