Portovenere

Porto Venere

The “sixth village” east of the Cinque Terre, with a black-and-white striped church at the tip of the headland, Byron's Grotto and three offshore islands, making it the finest corner of the Gulf of La Spezia.

Portovenere lies at the tip of the headland on the western side of the Gulf of La Spezia. It shares a UNESCO World Heritage listing with the Cinque Terre, yet it draws far fewer visitors because no train runs there. From the harbor, a row of colorful narrow houses known as the Palazzata leads through a 12th-century city gate onto the main street, Via Capellini, lined with restaurants and craft shops. At the end, climb the rocky headland to reach the Church of San Pietro (Chiesa di San Pietro), completed in 1277. This small Gothic church, with black-and-white marble stripes, stands at the edge of the cliff, surrounded by the sea on three sides, and it is the most photogenic church on the entire coast. The cave beside the church is Byron's Grotto (Grotta di Byron). Legend says Byron swam across from here to Lerici on the opposite shore to visit Shelley. In summer, locals dive and swim from the rocks in front of the cave. Above the headland, Doria Castle (€5) overlooks the church, the bay and the Palmaria island opposite, and the 1130 Church of San Lorenzo sits halfway up the hillside. From the harbor, small boats run to Palmaria Island (€10 round trip, with options to circle the island or go ashore for hiking and swimming) and two other small islands. The ferry pier for the Cinque Terre (April to October) is also here. Getting there: take the P-line bus from La Spezia, about 30–40 minutes (€2.5, every 30 minutes), or take a 30-minute ferry. From the Cinque Terre, ferries run directly (about 1 hour 20 minutes from Monterosso). Allow 2–3 hours, and combine it with La Spezia or Lerici in a single day. Watch the sunset from the headland in the evening. When swimming at Byron's Grotto in summer, watch out for swells and rocks.

Portovenere

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Places to eat nearby