Churchill

The "Polar Bear Capital of the World": see polar bears from a tundra buggy in late autumn, swim with belugas in summer and watch the northern lights in winter.

Churchill lies in northern Manitoba, Canada, at the mouth of the Churchill River on the western shore of Hudson Bay. Home to fewer than 1,000 people, it has no road connection to the outside world: you arrive either by plane from Winnipeg (about 2.5 hours) or on the VIA Rail train (about two days). It is famous as the "Polar Bear Capital of the World": from mid-October to mid-November, hundreds of polar bears gather on the coast waiting for the bay to freeze, and visitors ride tundra buggies into the Churchill Wildlife Management Area for close-up views — the most reliable place on earth to see wild polar bears. In July–Aug tens of thousands of beluga whales pour into the Churchill River estuary, and you can see them by boat or kayak, or even swim with them; at the same time you can cross the river to visit 18th-century Prince of Wales Fort. From January to March, clear skies far from light pollution make it a great place for the northern lights, with aurora courses offered by the Churchill Northern Studies Centre, and in February–March you can watch mothers and cubs emerge from their dens in Wapusk National Park. In town are the Itsanitaq Museum of Inuit art, the Parks Canada visitor centre, the Miss Piggy plane wreck and the wreck of the MV Ithaca. Accommodation and tundra buggy spots are extremely limited during bear season and usually need booking a year ahead; a guided tour is the easiest option. When walking outside town, always heed polar bear warnings and never go out alone at night. Winter temperatures can drop below −30°C, so bring proper cold-weather gear. Plan on 3–5 days.

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