Chur
Switzerland's oldest town and the starting point of the Glacier Express and Bernina Express, close to the Rhine Gorge, the Viamala Gorge and Heidi's village.
Chur, capital of the Swiss canton of Graubünden, is considered the oldest town in Switzerland. It sits where the Plessur meets the Rhine Valley, at around 590 m. Its compact, car-free old town packs in the Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption, St. Martin's Church, Arcas square and the Rhaetian Museum, and can be explored in half a day; next to the station, the Bündner Kunstmuseum is noted for its Giacometti family collection. Chur is also a hub of the Rhaetian Railway, where the Glacier Express, the Bernina Express and the scenic Arosa line all begin. There's plenty to do nearby: a cable car from the edge of the old town goes straight up to Brambrüesch; 40 minutes west is Flims-Laax, with the emerald Caumasee and Crestasee lakes, the Il Spir viewing platform and the Rhine Gorge, dubbed the "Swiss Grand Canyon"; to the south are the Viamala Gorge and the church at Zillis with its painted ceiling; to the north are Maienfeld, setting of the Heidi story, the Tamina Gorge and its thermal spring, and Vaduz, capital of Liechtenstein; and Arosa and Lenzerheide are alpine resorts for skiing in winter and lakeside hiking in summer. The best season is May–Oct, with gorge trips, lake swimming and rafting concentrated in Jun–Sep; winter is all about skiing, and some gorges and attractions close. Trains from Zurich take about 75 minutes, and the Swiss Travel Pass covers most transport and museums. Plan on 2–3 days.
Top sights
- Chur Old Town – The car-free old town of Switzerland’s oldest city, with painted houses, fountain squares, and stone-paved lanes. Arcas Square is its heart.
- Rhine Gorge (Ruinaulta) – The Rhine gorge known as “Switzerland’s Grand Canyon,” where you can raft, hike, or ride a train through white limestone cliffs.
- Caumasee – An emerald lake surrounded by forest, with groundwater giving it a fantastical blue-green color. It is one of Switzerland’s most beautiful…
- Chur Cathedral – Chur's cathedral blends Romanesque and Gothic styles; the late Gothic gilded wooden altar screen is exquisite.
- St. Martin's Church, Chur – A late Gothic Protestant church in the heart of the old town; its three stained-glass windows were created by Augusto Giacometti.
- Rätisches Museum – The historical museum of the canton of Graubünden, housed in a 17th-century Baroque mansion, tells the story of mountain life from prehisto…
- Bündner Kunstmuseum – Made up of the Oriental-style Villa Planta and a modern new building, with a focus on works by the Giacometti family and Kirchner.
- Brambrüesch – A mountain on your doorstep, reached directly by cable car from Chur's old town; summer brings hiking and mountain biking, and winter a fam…
- Il Spir Viewing Platform – A swallow-tail-shaped viewing platform cantilevered about 400 metres above the cliffs of the Rhine gorge, the best spot for views of the Ru…
- Crestasee – A small, warm lake hidden in the forest; quieter than Lake Cauma, with a floating platform and an islet, ideal for swimming and picnics.
- Flims Laax – A well-known Swiss ski and outdoor resort; the 'White Arena' ski area is famous for its snowboard parks, and the area offers summer hiking…
- Viamala Gorge – A narrow, deep gorge cut by the Hinterrhein; descend 321 steps to the canyon floor to see giant potholes ground out by the flowing water.
- St. Martin's Church, Zillis – Preserves Europe's oldest complete Romanesque painted wooden ceiling, with 153 panels depicting the life of Christ and sea monsters.
- Heidi Village, Maienfeld – The real-life inspiration for the story of 'Heidi', with a reconstructed Heidi's house, a goat pen and Peter's hut; ideal for families and…
- Tamina Gorge – A deep, shadowy gorge at the source of the Bad Ragaz thermal springs; a path through the rock cracks leads to the 36.5°C hot spring, and an…
- Arosa & Obersee – A high-altitude resort at the end of the Schanfigg valley; skiing in winter and lakeside hiking in summer, reached from Chur by a scenic tr…
- Arosa Bärenland – A brown bear sanctuary at about 2,000 metres, housing bears rescued from circuses and other harsh conditions; free to view.
- Lenzerheide & Heidsee – A resort on the plateau south of Chur; Lake Heid is good for swimming and boating, and the Rothorn cable car reaches a summit at the 3,000-…
- Vaduz Castle & Vaduz – Capital of the small principality of Liechtenstein; Vaduz Castle, perched on the hillside, is the prince's residence, and the town has an a…
- Pizol (Five Lakes Hike) – Take a cable car up for the classic five-lakes hike in eastern Switzerland, linking five alpine lakes with views of the Pizol Glacier.
- Aroser Weisshorn – A cable car runs straight from Arosa to the 2,653-metre summit, with 360-degree views over the Arosa valley and the Graubünden peaks.
- Parpaner Rothorn – The Rothorn cable car climbs from Lenzerheide to the 2,861-metre summit, where a red rocky peak offers views of hundreds of Alpine summits.
Where to eat
- Veltliner Weinstube Zum Stern – An old tavern in the Romantik Hotel Stern with over 330 years of history, and the first choice in Chur for traditional…
- Zunfthaus zur Rebleuten – A historic guild house on Pfisterplatz in Chur's old town, serving modern takes on Graubünden food with local wines.
- Drei Bünde – A popular little restaurant in a Chur old-town alley, said to serve the best Capuns in town. Its Bonanza steak has been…
- Mekong – A Southeast Asian restaurant run by a Lao family, recommended by the Michelin Guide and among the top-rated restaurants…
- Café Merz – The flagship of a historic Chur bakery founded in 1946. Handmade Graubünden walnut tart and pear bread are its signatur…
Itineraries
- Grand Tour of Switzerland Self-Drive – A clockwise self-drive journey through four language regions, crossing high mountain passes to connect snow-capped peak…
- Eastern Switzerland: Appenzell & Heidiland – From the Rhine Falls to St. Gallen, Alpstein, Liechtenstein, and the Rhine Gorge.