Chicago

The birthplace of the skyscraper on Lake Michigan: Cloud Gate in Millennium Park, architecture boat tours and deep-dish pizza, a third-largest US city powered by museums, blues and jazz.

Chicago lies in northeastern Illinois on the southwestern shore of Lake Michigan. With a population of about 2.7 million, it is the third-largest city in the United States and the economic and transportation hub of the Midwest. When the city was rebuilt after the Great Fire of 1871, it gave rise to the world's first skyscrapers, earning it the name the capital of modern architecture. The Chicago River, the lakefront and the elevated "Loop" railway form the city's backbone. Areas to explore: the Loop and Millennium Park (Cloud Gate, Crown Fountain, the Pritzker Pavilion, the Art Institute of Chicago, Willis Tower); both banks of the Chicago River (the Riverwalk, architecture boat tours, the Magnificent Mile shopping street and the 360 Chicago observation deck, Navy Pier); the Museum Campus (the Field Museum, Shedd Aquarium, Adler Planetarium); to the north, Lincoln Park (with its free zoo) and Wrigleyville, home of Wrigley Field; and to the south, Hyde Park (the University of Chicago, the Museum of Science and Industry). The climate is humid continental with four distinct seasons: June–September, at 22–30°C, is the best season, with lakeside cycling, beaches, blues and jazz, and the Lollapalooza festival at their liveliest; October is cool and colorful; November–March is bitterly cold, often below -10°C, with biting lake winds and lots of snow, though the museums and Christmas markets are still worth a visit; April–May is changeable. Getting there: there are direct flights from Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong to O'Hare Airport (ORD), and the Blue Line train takes about 45 minutes to downtown (about $5); Midway Airport (MDW) is served by the Orange Line. Getting around: the CTA's "L" elevated/subway trains and buses, paid with a Ventra card or by phone tap; a single ride is $2.50 and a 1-day pass is $5. Divvy bikes suit the Lakefront Trail; downtown is best on foot, and taxis and Uber are convenient. We recommend 3–4 days: Millennium Park, the Art Institute and the Riverwalk in 1 day; an architecture boat tour, the Magnificent Mile and Navy Pier in 1 day; the Museum Campus or the Field Museum in 1 day; plus a game at Wrigley Field or a night at a blues bar. Tips: CityPASS (5 attractions for about $140) suits intensive sightseeing; some neighborhoods on the South and West Sides are unsafe, so avoid them at night; in winter, be sure to bring a down jacket, hat and non-slip shoes; deep-dish pizza (Lou Malnati's, Giordano's) takes 45 minutes to bake, so call ahead to order; a Chicago hot dog never comes with ketchup.

Top sights

Where to eat

Itineraries