Chengbu & Nanshan
Nanshan National Park, a high-altitude grassland in southern China, with meadows and wind turbines at nearly 2,000 m, set off by the Liangjiang Gorge and Miao culture.
Chengbu Miao Autonomous County is in southwestern Hunan at the southern tip of Shaoyang, where the Xuefeng Mountains meet the Nanling Mountains, bordering Ziyuan and Longsheng in Guangxi. It has many peaks over 1,000 m and is home to most of Nanshan National Park, Hunan's first national park pilot. The main draw is Nanshan in the southwest: rolling meadows spread across a high plateau averaging about 1,700 m, where dairy cows, wind turbines and seas of cloud create the look of 'southern China's Hulunbuir'. Cool in summer, it's a favorite spot for Hunan locals to escape the heat, camp and watch the sunrise. Around the county seat, Rulin Town, are Baiyun Lake and Baiyun Cave; the road to Nanshan winds through the Liangjiang Gorge, passing the Miao village of Taolin and the ancient fir groves of the Dong village of Chang'anying. In the south, the Shiwan Gutian area of Tingping Township is a hidden realm of highland wetlands and azaleas. The best times are Jun–Sep for cool weather and October for autumn colors; in winter Nanshan often sees ice and snow, and roads may be closed. Self-driving is the main way to get around: the county seat is about 2.5 hours from Shaoyang and about 3 hours from Guilin, and Nanshan Pasture is 60–80 km of mountain road (1.5–2 hours) from town. Allow 2–3 days, spending a night on Nanshan for the sunrise and sea of clouds. Highlights include the Miao Liuyueliu (6th-day-of-the-6th-month) Folk Song Festival, insect tea, oil tea and the Miao long-table banquet.
Top sights
- Nanshan Ranch – A highland grassland plateau at the heart of Nanshan National Park, where meadows, dairy cows, wind turbines and cloud seas come together…
- Liangjiang Canyon – A canyon of more than 30 km stretching west from the county seat to Wutuan, with forests, streams and Miao villages. It offers summer rafti…
- Baiyun Lake – A high-mountain canyon lake southeast of the county seat, with islands and waterways, the Baiyun Cave karst system and a glass walkway. It…
- Taolin Miao Village – A Miao village of stilt houses built into the hillside along the Liangjiang Canyon, recognized as one of Hunan's most beautiful ethnic mino…
- Chang'anying Ancient Firs – A grove of thousand-year-old firs at the entrance of Dazhai Village in Chang'anying, said to have been planted during the Eastern Jin dynas…
- Shiwan Gutian Wetland – A high-mountain wetland plateau on the border between Chengbu and Guangxi at 1,200 to 1,800 meters, with primeval forest, marsh meadows and…
Where to eat
- Nanshan Qiaotou Restaurant – An old roadside restaurant in Nanshan Town that has operated for about thirty years. Mutton hotpot and Miao-style cured…
Itineraries
- Southwest Hunan Road Trip: Xuefeng Mountain to Langshan – A long-distance self-drive loop through terraced fields, Yao villages, ancient commercial towns, Dong villages, Nanshan…