Chatham Islands

A remote archipelago 800 km east of New Zealand, one of the first places on Earth to see the sunrise, with Moriori tree carvings and basalt columns.

The Chatham Islands lie in the South Pacific about 800 km east of mainland New Zealand, made up of Chatham Island (Rēkohu/Wharekauri), Pitt Island and a dozen or so smaller islands, with around 600 permanent residents. Close to the International Date Line, the islands are 45 minutes ahead of mainland New Zealand and are among the first inhabited places on Earth to see the sunrise. This is the homeland of the Moriori, who followed the pacifist Nunuku's Law; after invasion by Māori tribes in the 19th century they were nearly wiped out. Today the tree carvings (dendroglyphs) at Hapupu Reserve, Kōpinga Marae and the statue of Tommy Solomon are key to understanding this history. Natural highlights include the basalt columns at Ohira Bay, the seal colony at Point Munning, Te Whanga Lagoon and its fossilised shark teeth, the nīkau palm forests and Henga Reserve, plus critically endangered endemic birds such as the tāiko and the black robin. Most visits centre on Chatham Island: Waitangi is the base, and the northwest (airport, Henga, the basalt columns, the nīkau forest) and the northeast (Hapupu, Kaingaroa, Point Munning) each take a day, with another day or two for Owenga in the southeast and Pitt Island. The best season is Dec–Mar, with temperatures around 15–20°C; it is windy and changeable year-round, so bring windproof and waterproof clothing. The only way in is with Air Chathams from Wellington, Christchurch or Auckland, about 2 hours; flights are infrequent and baggage limits strict, so book accommodation and car hire in advance. There is no public transport on the islands, and many sights are on private farmland, requiring permission or a guide. Mobile coverage is limited, and you should sort out cash and fuel ahead of time. Allow 4–5 days.

Top sights

• Hāpūpū / J M Barker National Historic Reserve – One of only two national historic reserves in New Zealand, preserving Moriori tree carvings in the forest.
• Basalt Columns (Ohira Bay) – A cluster of basalt columns in Owhila Bay on the north coast, where six-sided stone pillars rise from the hillsides and shoreline in a stri…
• Waitangi – The main town and port of the islands, where the hotels, shops, museum and wharf are all clustered around the bay.
• Kōpinga Marae – A Moriori meeting house completed in 2005, telling the story of Moriori pacifism and cultural revival.
• Point Munning Seal Colony – A New Zealand fur seal colony on the northeast coast, with groups of seals on the rocks close at hand and pups present in summer.
• Te Whanga Lagoon – A large lagoon covering nearly a fifth of central Chatham Island, with shark tooth fossils and waterbirds along its shores.
• Moriori Rock Carvings, Te Whanga Lagoon – Moriori rock paintings and carvings on the limestone of the western shore of Te Whanga, which, together with tree carvings, form important…
• Henga Scenic Reserve – A native forest and dune reserve on the northwest coast, where tracks run through the woodland to a wild beach with strong winds and heavy…
• Nīkau Bush Conservation Area – The world's southernmost nīkau palm forest, with trails through the bush to see plants and birds endemic to the Chatham Islands.
• Tommy Solomon Statue – A seaside statue commemorating the man known as the 'last full-blooded Moriori', facing Manukau Bay.
• Pitt Island (Rangiauria) – The second-largest island in the group, home to only a few dozen people, with cliffs, seabirds and a pristine coastline that has barely bee…
• Tuku Nature Reserve & Taiko Camp – A refuge for the taiko, one of the world's rarest seabirds, with deep and quiet primeval forest on the southwest coast.

Where to eat

• Hotel Chathams Restaurant – The island's only bar and main restaurant, where the signature fried blue cod and chips and seasonal crayfish earn prai…
• Waitangi Cafe – A small café in central Waitangi serving brunch, daily specials and homemade cakes, and a local favourite for everyday…
• River Onion Gallery Cafe – A café in a converted 1970s A-frame beach house overlooking Petre Bay, serving lunch made with local greens and seafood.