Changzhi

Grand canyons on the western flank of the Taihang Mountains and a treasure trove of Tang and Song architecture: boat into Baquan Gorge, drive the winding Taihang Sky Road, and explore nationally protected timber buildings across Pingshun and Zhangzi.

Changzhi, known in ancient times as Shangdang, lies in southeastern Shanxi between the Taihang and Taiyue mountains. The Taihang Grand Canyon, spread across Huguan and Pingshun counties in the east, is the most spectacular group of gorges on the western side of the Taihang range. This destination centers on the Huguan–Pingshun canyon area and Changzhi's historic architecture, and also covers the city and surrounding areas such as Zhangzi, Lucheng, Licheng and Wuxiang. The climate is warm-temperate continental monsoon, with cool summers that have earned Changzhi the nickname the city without fans. From July to October the gorges are full of water and lush with vegetation, and the red leaves peak in mid-to-late October; in winter some canyon boats and elevators shut down, but historic buildings remain open. The area divides into three parts: first, the Taihang Grand Canyon, with Baquan, Hongdou and Qinglong gorges clustered in southeastern Huguan, where you can stay in farm guesthouses in Qiaoshang Township or Daxiagu Town; second, Pingshun's Taihang Sky Road, Tongtian Gorge, Tianji Mountain, Hongti Pass and Yuejiazhai, the finest stretch of the Taihang No. 1 Scenic Highway and ideal for self-driving; third, historic buildings and the city, as Changzhi has a wealth of Tang, Song, Jin and Yuan timber structures, including Tiantai Hermitage, Dayun Monastery, Yuanqi Temple, Longmen Temple, Chongqing Temple, Faxing Temple and Guanyin Hall, all national heritage sites, while the city has Shangdang Gate and the Lu'an Prefecture City God Temple. Getting there: Changzhi has Wangcun Airport, and high-speed trains from Taiyuan and Zhengzhou serve Changzhi East Station; Baquan Gorge is about 1.5 hours by car from the city. Public transport in the canyon area is poor, so self-driving or hiring a car is strongly recommended. Allow 4–5 days: 2 days for the canyons, 1–2 days for the Taihang Sky Road and Pingshun's old buildings, and 1 day for the city and Zhangzi's historic architecture; add another day for the revolutionary history route (Wuxiang, Licheng). Note: mountain roads are winding and steep, so drive carefully in rain or snow; many historic buildings are in villages with irregular opening hours, so call ahead before setting out. Local food to try: Changzhi donkey meat, Huguan mutton soup, Shangdang cured donkey meat and Pingshun stews with Lu codonopsis root.

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